PARASHAR LAKE - MANDI

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THE KINNER KAILASH PARIKRAMA (Exploring Kinnaur)

The Kinner Kailash Parikrama

For the Hindu or Buddhist, to perform a “Parikrama” is to circum-ambulate a holy place, be it temple, lake or mountain. The most sacred parikrama for the devout is the circumambulation of Mt.Kailash (The Abode of Shiva) and the adjacent Mansarovar Lake in Tibet. Interestingly the lake is also the source of three main River systems in the Indian Subcontinent, The Indus, The Sutlej and The Brahmaputra. Lesser substitutes, of considerable local significance, include the Parikrama of the Kinner Kailash massif.

A parikrama is always performed in a clockwise direction with the sacred precincts on one’s right. The Traditional Parikrama of the Kinner Kailash was a long journey on foot, stretching over 200 kms. Beginning from the Buddhist temple at Powari, at the base of the Holy Mountain, the route wound up the left bank of Sutlej, into the Tedong or Tirung valley, over the Charang pass, down the Baspa and back to Powari again. At Powari and every village thereafter, lighting a lamp at the local Buddhist temple was an essential part of the pilgrimage. Now motor roads have shortened the walk to a five day trek from Thangi in the Tedong valley to Chitkul, the highest village in the Sangla valley just short of the border with Tibet. The traditional timing of the yatra requires that the pilgrim reach Charang, the last village in the Tedong valley, on the Hindu day of Janmashtmi (Lord Krishna’s Birthday). This day usually occurs sometime in August and this remains the best time for the Parikrama, although it is possible to undertake the trek even two-three months earlier and till as late as the first half of October. Less devout travelers can undertake the journey in an anti-clockwise direction but route conditions definitely favor the way of the faithful.

DAY ONE

Kalpa – Ribba – Thangi 2800mts

After a brief orientation and stocking up with supplies and trek staff we find ourselves journey in a jeep, sampling the villages under the shadow of The Kinner Kailash to Thangi. Set up camp and enjoy a good sleep to begin the trek tomorrow.

DAY TWO

Thangi – Lambar 2950 mts ….. 5 – 6 Hrs

Start early morning after breakfast. Just out of Thangi, above the old path is a foot print like impression credited to Rinchen Tsangpo, the Great Translator. There is a mule track till the point where we start descending to Tedong at Guldum. From here on it is along the valley bed. Past the flood plain of the Shakrang Nullah, the little hamlet of Lambar comes into sight, on the other side of the river. Lambar’s houses shaded by huge walnut trees cling to the right bank of the Lambar stream. The valley widens a little here, the Tedong prattles at a gentler pace, and young deodars and pines add to the charm. Set up camp.

DAY THREE

Lambar – Charang 3450 mts

The Traditional Parikrama route requires one to visit Kunu, before moving on to Charang. Soon after Lambar the trees begin thinning out. First to go are the deodars, then the pines, and thereafter the birch. Finally only the Junipers are left in occasional clumps, to break the monotony of bare soil and rock-strewn hill side. The path from Guldum onwards is through river bed moraine, with frequent detours over rock faces or steep sedimentary deposits. This, tiresome stretch continues up to the flats of Shurtingting, a few kilometres short of Charang. The track which stays on the right bank after the crossing of the Tedong for Thangi, switches to the left, about 8kms short of Charang. For Kunu one continues up the right bank. Just past Shurtingting, the stream coming from the Simthang pass route to Tibet, joins the main river on theright. Kunu 3400mts can be seen amidst gently sloping fields, a little way up this valley. The main route to Charang lies through the flats of Shurtingting. These spacious riverside terraces are dotted with juniper trees, trained head high by the fuel wood demands of the locals.

DAY FOUR

Charang – Lalanti (4300mts) ………. 12kms

Beyond Charang, with the border less than 30 kms away, begins the restricted area and it is not possible for foreigners to visit Khimokul la, giving access to Tibet or cross the distant Laskar pass, leading to the Baspa at Nithal Thach. A visit to the temple of Rangrik Tungma and on return one faces a very long ascent, up through the pastures of Charang village. The ridge line is finally crossed into the upper Shurtingting valley at a point almost 4500 mts high. A cliff hanging steep descent in the shadow of the towering peak of Phawararang 6349 mts follows. A more gradual ascent and a fording of the icy cold waters of the Shurtingting stream thereafter, brings one up to the tin hut which functions as the Lalanti pass shelter.

DAY FIVE

Lalanti – Chitkul………… (3450mts)

Day five sees us crossing the Charang pass 5242 mts, involves no glacier crossing, and skirts its passage all the way to the top from Lalanti. After a long haul across treacherous moraine and a final breathless ascent on a slithery scree slope, it is a long run down to Chitkul on the other side. With an early start from Lalanti it is possible to reach Chitkul by late afternoon. A delayed start or too many halts enroute increases the unwelcome possibility of descending the boulder strewn slopes in the dark.

DAY SIX

Chitkul – Sangla (2650mts) …. 24 kms

One has the choice of either catching a bus to Sangla or to enjoy some of the prettiest scenery in the Himalaya, to walk to Sangla. The road moves down, through birch and pine interspersed with piles of jumbled rock. The river alternately ambles through pretty little glades or rushes through huge mounds of rock, with forested flanks and towering rock faces closing the valley on either side. Less than halfway to Sangla is the village of Rakcham, from where we go to the left bank of the Baspa, following a forest path to the village of Batseri and then via the Hurba Khud and the trout farm to Sangla village.

GRANDEUR - The Sach Pass Trail (Lahaul Valley, Pangi Valley, Chamba, Kangra)

Pangi is remarkable in its rugged grandeur and austere beauty. The scenery is sublime and imposing and nature appears in her wildest and grandest moods. Everything is on a stupendous scale. The great river rolls along in a deep and narrow gorge, lashing itself into fury, sandwiched between adamantine cliffs that confine it. Precipices spring from the brink in places almost perpendicular to a height of 1,000 to 2,000 feet. On the lower ranges are grassy slopes of rich pasture with dense forests of pine and cedar, while higher up the stern and majestic mountains attaining an altitude from 18,000 to 21,000 feet rising far above the line of eternal snow. But all this is not rugged and sublimity and naked beauty. Every few miles the traveler reaches tolerably open nooks of surpassing beauty, which may have been small lakes in some gone by age, while the river was cutting its course." Dr J Hutchinson 1910 ....... nuthing has changed much ever since ---- Welcome to the voyage of 2011 ... on Bicycles, motorcycles and Jeeps - September 1st to 11th, 2011 ...

The Itinerary

Day Zero (August 31st)

Board the evening volvo bus to Manali from Chanderlok Building,Janpath. Dinner on the way. This is a 14 hour journey.

Day One (September 1st)

Arrive in Manali in the morning and transfer to Naggar for your stay. The day takes us frolicking in Manali, visiting Vashishta village and Hadimba temple. The evening is spent at Johnsons cafe with a bief orientation session about the trip. Overnight stay in Naggar.

Day Two (September 2nd)

We drive in to the Himalayas after an early breakfast crossing Rohtang Pass about 1100 hours. Fuel up at Tandi, our last gas station for another 300 kms. Proceed to Keylong for an overnight stay.

Distance126kms

Day Three (September 3rd)

We tread slowly, whilst exploring the Lahaul valley. Its an early morning visit to Trilokinath temple after a photographic session at Udaipur. We enter the Chandrabhaga gorge, flanked by a 300 feet cliffside for the rest of the days 80 kms, moving on further the narrow road. This journey is an adventure in itself. We stop at Tindi a picturesque village on the Lahaul and Pangi border. Following the course of the Chandrabagha we continue towards, Purthi, Cherry Bungalow and the final 7 kms hair raising ride to Killar, the headquarters of the pangi valley. Overnight in Camps.

Distance 150kms

Day Four (September 4th)

The day is spent exploring the environs of the Pangi valley.

Day Five (September 5th)

A journey through a the high Sach pass (4400mts) and the transition from the highs of the Pir Panjal to the greens of the Ravi valley at Chamba. An adrenalized journey of 160 kms.

Distance 160kms

Day Six (September 6th)

A short and a leisurely day as we journey in to Bharmaur.

Distance 65kms

Day Seven (September 7th)
Backtrack from Bharmaur and visit the touristy Khajiar and proceed to Dalhousie, a remnant of the British era. Another short day.
Distance 110kms

Day Eight (September 8th)

Bid adieu to Chamba and enter the Kangra valley, proceeding to Little Tibet, McLeodganj, the abode of his Holiness, The Dalai Lama.

Distance 120kms

Day Nine (September 9th)

The day is spent walking to Triund and back to McLeodganj. Spend the evening strolling the Bazaar of Mcleodganj.

Day Ten (September 10th)

Ride on through the Kangra valley with brief stopovers at Gopalpur, Baijnath, Bir and proceed to Barot.

Distance 108 kms

Day Eleven (September 11th)

Our last day, but we don’t miss out on the fun as we make an early morning dash to Parashar Lake. Wind our way down and reach Mandi by 1700 hours. We freshen up and have a bash at one of the restaurants and say our byes, as we get ready to board the 2000hrs Volvo bus back to Delhi.

Distance to Mandi via Parashar Lake 160kms

________________________________________

COST

INR 29,400/- Per Person (Indian Rupees Twenty Nine Thousand Four Hundred Rupees per Person)

***** There is a discount of 10% (ten percent) if you are a group of 4 (four) people or more.

SELF DRIVE OPTION INR 18,800/- Per Person (Indian Rupees Eighteen Thousand and Eight Hundred per person)

INCLUSIONS
• Accommodation in camps/country inns, home stays and hotels, along the route on twin sharing basis.
• Transport in Volvo from Delhi to Manali and from mandi to Delhi
• Transport through the trip in sumo/scorpio with an occupancy of 4 people in one vehicle
• Breakfast and Dinner
• Beverages including Morning, afternoon and evening tea, Mineral Water (excluding alcoholic beverages and aerated beverages)
• Field Expert
• Trekking in Pangi and McLeodganj.
• Service tax
________________________________________

EXCLUDES
Insurance
Tips
Expenses of personal nature e.g. Telephone bills, etc
Mineral Water and other beverages
Immediate expenses raised due to natural occurrences – landslides, weather, cloud burst etc.
Lunch Expenses.
________________________________________
BEAR IN MIND
The itinerary is reflective of the best possible way to accomplish the journey. Come prepared to expect rain, snow, weather changes which may result in landslides, road blockades leading to changes in the plan.
The costs incurred thus are to be borne directly at the time of occurrence. Though when organizing we try to adjust, however if no alternative exists then the extra costs will be incurred directly by the guests.
Permits required need to be made in advance. Keep the permits handy at all times.
In case of an emergency requiring immediate rescue, utmost care is taken to evacuate immediately however the costs incurred will be borne by the guests. This is not a deterrent if the guests are unable at that time, don’t worry it can be settled later.
A signing of an indemnity form is essential.
Respect the local culture.
Avoid drinking
________________________________________
For Booking your place in the trip please fill the Form in the link provided below
http://travelwithdj.blogspot.com/p/about-us.html

Or email us at info.travelwithdj@gmail.com

Or Call Dhananjay on +91-86791-80331
________________________________________
HAPPY TRAILS

Cheers and Regards,

Dhananjay @ Travel With Dj
www.travelwithdj.blogspot.com

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THE DAK BUNGALAW TRAIL OF SHIMLA (walking, cycling, road tripping)

THE DAK BUNGALAW TRAIL OF SHIMLA (walking, cycling, road tripping)

Charabara in Shimla is surrounded on three sides by the magnificent Shimla Water Catchment Sanctuary, a 125 year old sanctuary that was established by the British as a reserved forest. The sanctuary was the initial source of water for Shimla, the water pumped to Shimla town through a series of steam pumps, reputed to be the first of their kind in the country. Today this pristine and undisturbed forest stretches across an area of 12 square kilometres and is considered by many as one of the wealthiest storehouses of Himalayan flora. This extremely dense forest is also the habitat for a vast variety of fauna, the most prominent being the Leopard. Although a sighting of this extremely human-shy and nocturnal animal is very rare, regular reports of droppings prove the existence of a large population within the sanctuary. The Himalayan Black Bear and the Brown Bear, Barking Deer, Goral, Jackal, Indian Red Fox, Striped Hyena and the Yellow-Throated Martin are some of the species of wildlife that thrive in the undisturbed forests of the sanctuary. A wide variety of bird and pheasant species can also be spotted in the lower altitude belts of the sanctuary, some of the more prominent ones being the Cheer, Koklas and Khaleej pheasants, the Himalayan Pied Woodpecker, the Great Himalayan Barbet and some sparklingly colorful minivets. A bifurcation penetrates deep into the sanctuary along a prominent ridgeline. Descend down to the Seyog Forest Rest House, a hundred year old lathe and plaster (Dhajji) structure located in the midst of this silent forest. The narrow trail undulates for an hour or more through one of the best-preserved forests in Asia. Cedars, Firs, Pines and Oaks jostle each other for space and the canopy-density at places prevents even the sunlight from peeping through to the forest floor. Droppings and pugmarks of the fauna are regular sightings along this trail and if ones luck holds out, a perky Barking Deer too might flash past in gay abandon. As one would guess, this is an excellent site for some bird-watching too.

THE JALORI PASS EXPERIENCE - experience a new high

THE JALORI PASS EXPERIENCE (http://travelwithdj.blogspot.com/p/walks-treks.html)


Situated 100 kms. from Shimla in Kullu district, the Jalori Pass is  far away  from the urban rigmarole, in the silent wilderness of the Himalayas where every flower truly enjoys the air it breathes. The seasonal blossoms set the hills on fire in their rich variant hues. Cradled within a yet untouched forest heartland, the Jalori Pass offers Nature’s breathing life – bountiful flora and fauna amidst the pristine solitude of the highlands.

Birds, butterflies and flowers of various hues line the alpine meadows, woods and valleys all along the slopes of Jalori. The fragrance of Lillies, Primulas, Asters, Gentians, Rhododendrons along with various rare herbs and medicinal plants please the senses while the stunning views make a winning snapshot for the camera -friendly. Twittering and gushing forth their songs, a plethora of Himalayan feathered species are annually visited by the Gujjars and Gaddis during spring, which return in the months of October and November. For the adventure seeker, the chance meeting with a wandering leopard, a shy Himalayan black bear or a rare Pine Martin for wildlife lovers adds to the excitement. The forests of Jalori are a tribute to the magnificence of nature.

Treks to unforgettable places like the Sereolsar Lake, Shoja, Lambri, Sakiran, Bashleo Pass and the Great Himalayan National Park as well as the forts of Raghunathpur, Kalagarh and Fatehpurgarh offer endless options to the explorer. Nature trails all across the Jalori region are unfolded by our expert naturalists describing the myriad species of flora and fauna that infest the slopes of Jalori while the unassuming hamlets dotting the forests unfold a warm and unique rural culture. Trout fishing in the Tirthan River at Larji and Gushaini add to the charm. 

A stay at the Tirthan valley is well recommended, may be experiencing the warm hospitality of Raju in his cottage at Gushaini or The Himalayan Trout house at Nagini. The Tirthan valley is on the vestiges of The great Himalayan National park and offers numerous walks into the park.

Also The walk from The Jalori pass to raghupur fort and further to Chach Galu is worth it, a four hour walk through rolling meadows and a verdant cedar and oak forest. From Chach galu descend to Khauli and Gadah Gushaini, into the remote interiors, great for cycling and walking. Bahu 12 kms from Gadah Gushaini is another idyllic setting with a very good guest house run by a local couple amidst an apple orchard. For those who have time the walk from Chach Galu to Magru gala and to janjehli is refreshing. The famous and perhaps the only advenure cycling enduro in the country MTB HIMACHAL (www.mtbhimachal.com) runs its singletrack and bike and hike section through this region. Janjehli in Mandi district is an untouched corner of Himachal offering walks to Shikari Devi (16kms) and Chindi a place to be in the monsoons enveloped by the mist. From Chindi one can drive back to shimla with a brief stopover at Tattapani and Naldehra and Mashobra. The other option from Janjehli is to drive to Mandi (63 kms) or ride it down and further to Parashar Lake.


For the ones wanting to explore The Jalori area, ride or drive from gadah Gushaini to Jibbi and shoja. Both the places offer good accommodation and awesome opportunities for nature walks. In April and May, Shoja bursts alive with blue iris all around and is a sight which will resonate.


For the religious, this celestial spot proffers temples of deities native to the Kullu soil. Jalori Mata’s Temple at Jalori Pass, Mahakali Temple at Lambri, Buri Nagan’s Temple at Sereolsar Lake, Brahmandrishi, the local God of Shoja and Sgringdrashij at Cheine are the exotically carved temples steeped in the myths of this magical land. Festive occasions are celebrated with pious devotion in the region. The Banjaar Mela, Bali Chauki Mela, Shoja, Goshaini and Kullu Dussehras are some of the well – attended festivities. 


For more details on the region and sample plans you may want to check out our blog


www.travelwithdj.blogspot.com


HAPPY TRAILS !!!


Cheers and Regards,
Dhananjay Ahluwalia

KINNAUR - “The Pine nut”, kernel

Kinnaur - Occupying the northeast corner of Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur is a region of high mountain ranges, enclosing the narrow valleys of the Sutlej and its tributaries. In the south, The Dhauladhars, ascending eastward to meet the Greater Himalaya, divide the Sangla valley of Kinnaur from the Uttarkashi district of Uttaranchal and Shimla district of Himachal Pradesh. To the east, the vast reaches of Tibet lie across the Zaskar Mountains. Between the Zaskars and the Dhauladhars, the Greater Himalaya passes through the heart of Kinnaur and the Srikhand mountains screen of Spiti on the northwest and along a short stretch on the southwest mark the border with Kullu.

The River Sutlej, entering India from Tibet at Shipki la, pierces through a seemingly impregnable series of barriers in its tumultuous journey to the plains of India. Dropping almost 2000m over 100 odd kms, as it traverses southwest through Kinnaur, the River pays scant regard to the impressive credentials of the Zaskar, Greater Himalaya and Dhauladhar Ranges. The Sutlej forms a narrow, steep sided valley which tapers into more gradual slopes, part way up the high mountains on either side. Villages are located either on these gentler slopes or in the valleys of the more substantial tributaries joining the Sutlej in the course of its journey through Kinnaur.
Kinnaur finds a fit expression in its abundant delicacy “The Pine nut”, like the tasty kernel of the nut, it may take some effort to get to the core of Kinnaur however once you are there, the experience is truly rewarding. Legend has it that Kinnaur with all its beauty and splendor fell from the clouds to take its place in the Himalayas. The place and its people find mention in many ancient Hindu texts. The ancient people of this land were Kinner and Kirats tribes – also referred to as “Gandharvas” in Vedic literature. About 2000 B.C a branch of the Aryans, called “Khashas”, penetrated the Himalaya through the Kashgar and Kashmir and dominated this whole area. Later, in the 13th and 14th centuries, “The Bhutias” came from Tibet to the region.

Due to its proximity to Tibet the lifestyle and religion of inhabitants have been influenced by Buddhism, though majority of the people practice Hinduism, Buddhism is prevalent in Northern and Central parts of Kinnaur. Imposing monasteries at Morang and Namgia have beautiful sculptures and wood carvings. The people are god fearing and honest. Some places in Kinnaur practice polyandry. Polyandry may have been a natural societal response, to limited arable land and the multifarious occupations of the men folk.
Every September the Kinnauris celebrate "Phulaich" - the festival of flowers which is the time the whole region is colorful and one of the best times to visit.

Sangla - An 18 kilometer winding road from Karchamm through some spectacular cliffs leads us to Sangla village. The Gerard brothers, the first outsiders to set foot in the Baspa Valley in the first quarters of the nineteenth century ranked it as the most beautiful of all Himalayan Valleys. Later visitors have been almost as Lavish in their praise. Flanked by the Kinner Kailash peaks on all sides, Sangla is a base for many high altitude treks in the region, and also the end of the famous Kinner Kailash Parikrama pilgrimage. Chitkul the last village in India bordering Tibet is a beautiful drive of 21 kms from Sangla. Other interesting sights include The Kamru Fort, Rakchamm village, Batseri village and the walk to Sangla Kanda.

Kalpa/Reckong Peo - This region of Kinnaur is known as the Sairag region and for a long time “Chini” in this area was the only place in Kinnaur of which the outside world had some knowledge perhaps due to hard Dalhousie’s two summer visits as Governor General of India in the middle of nineteenth century and a mention in Rudyard Kiplings “Kim”. This region offers some of the most dramatic scenery in the Himalaya. Here the Kinner Kailash range appears to spread itself out for the admiring gaze of the visitor. Not so close as to induce claustrophobia, yet almost to hand, the Mountains rise majestically from the river bed up through orchard forest and glinting glaciers to rocky pinnacles and snow-capped tops. The semicircle of peaks includes Raldang, Jorkanden and Kinner Kailash. Close to a saddle on the northern shoulder of Kinner Kailash, one can pick out the 17 – meter rock pillar of “Shivling”, changing colors with the movement of the sun. The ‘Kandas’ meaning pastures above Kalpa are too beautiful and a great way to experience pasture country is a night camp out there. Reckong Peo has a monastery of the Mahabodhi society and was constructed specially for the Dalai Lama to perform the Kalchakra ceremony in 1992. Next to it is a 10m statue of standing Buddha, visible from a considerable distance. Chini too has a Bodh Temple visited by outsiders from the antiquity point of view.
Nako - Nako is a most picturesque location by the side of a small lake. The flanks of the Reo Purgyal 6816 mts, the highest in Himachal, descend in gradual, rounded slopes till they meet the green of the irrigated fields. Here the gradient becomes even gentler, easing into numerous glacier-created hollows on the hillside, before descending sharply to Spiti. In one of these dips is the Nako Lake, with the village clustered on a little rise to the west. Nako’s temple complex, also credited to Rinchen Tsangpo, has four, crumbling, stone walled, flat-roofed shrines. Age and neglect are their strongest features despite recent attempts at preservation. Tattered “Thangkas” and damaged frescoes are sad testimonials to a proud past, when a better preserved temple, ranked high as a place of worship. One of the temples is dedicated to the local deity Purgyal representing the spirit of the mountain. The main Hall, the Lhakhang Cenpo, is located at the western end facing east. Large clay images of the five Dhyani Buddhas occupy pride of place while sundry other idols are arranged on the walls in the style of Tabo “Dukhang”. Vanishing murals of different “mandalas” are just about decipherable. The three halls also contain clay figures and wall paintings of obvious antiquity. An unusual fresco, above the doorway in the southern temple, depicts a personage of importance; bestride a white “kyang”, the Tibetan wild ass.

A track from Nako winds to Tashigang monastery, which is a walk of four hours from here. Tashigang is a veritable treasure house of artifacts. The small complex was built in the seventeenth century by craftsmen displaced in the wake of the war between Ladhakh and Tibet. It is called the Tashigang Monastery to differentiate it from the better known Tashigong Cham in the Indus valley in western Tibet. Tashigang is the seat of an incarnate Lama, “The Urgial Tulku Rimpoche”, now resident in Jangi and Burche (near Wangtu). The chief image at Tashigang is a small mud idol of Mila Repa with turquoise coloured hair, ensconced in a glass-fronted cavity in the chest of a large Sakyamuni clay image. Legend says that the hair on the Milarepa figure grows back if trimmed! Around the Altar and in an inner room, is a mélange of clay idols, bronzes, exquisitely carved figures on wood panels, religious artifacts and symbols. Many of these have come from Tibet, brought by refugees’ crossing over at the time of the Chinese take-over in 1960. An hour’s walk beyond Tashigang is the cave temple of Somang, where a levitating Lama is said to have meditated in the 1980’s.

THE OLD HINDUSTAN TIBET ROAD - not a classic - class apart ...

THE OLD HINDUSTAN TIBET ROAD - not a classic - class apart ...

This one conjures up images of a rich past, a valley flanked by the Trans Himalayas and The Kinner Kailash range, a road along the river Sutlej, flowing in from Mansarovar Lake in Tibet in gusto through the narrow gorge. The people are as rugged as the land,... and Buddhism prevails alongside Hinduism, a place dotted with Monasteries and Temples. This is not the Manali - Leh classic

... This is the road journey tracing the route taken by the River Sutlej, flowing in from Tibet. And it is the fastest flowing river in India. Approximately 350 kms starting from Shimla - The road has been the mainstay of trade and commuting in the valley since known history. The first travelers known to have traversed the region were Gerard Butler, Jacquemont and Hutton (very famous explorers of the Nineteenth century).The first official records were bought in by a commission led by One Thomson in 1847.The more famous travelers would include 'KIM' from Rudyard Kipling's book of the same name and 'AUFSCHNAITER & TREIPEL' from Heinrich Harrer's Seven Years in Tibet, when they used this trade route to escape from Tibet. Dalhousie, once a Governor General in the pre independence era, in the middle of the nineteenth century who ordered work to begin on the Hindustan Tibet Road in June 1850. Various reasons are cited for the building of the road that connected Kalka and Shimla to the Tibetan border. The system of begari prevalent in the hills, where unpaid labourers were pressed into service – including for the transport of timber and files to Shimla – is said to have upset the Governor General so deeply that he wanted to improve the road these men trudged. Lord Dalhousie also wanted to create trade ties with Tibet and this is felt to be the real reason for initiating the road and for his own trip to Kalpa in Kinnaur. The immense machinery at the disposal of the East India Company was pressed into service and halfway down the nineteenth century, work on what was then styled as the Great Hindustan Tibet Road began under the charge of the Commander-in-chief Sir Charles Napier. Beyond Shimla, to the Shipki pass on the border, the route took 228 miles. While the Dalhousie road brought the route into focus, the area had long been on one of the peripheral trade circuits of the legendary Silk Route. The path that passed the tract carried goods like musk, borax, wool, livestock, dry fruits, precious and semiprecious stones to and from Tibet, Kashmir, Ladakh and Yarkand. Maintaining a vibrant tradition, Rampur’s Lavi fair dates back to the trade agreements between Tibet and the former state of Bushair. And part from the goods that plied on the path it was the myriad cultural and historical influences that established the true worth of the Road.His official sojourns to the place, bought about the extension of the bridle path which over time found its way towards 'Shipki La' - The pass which the protagonists in 'Seven years in Tibet' crossed to get into India. The development of this bridle path as the main commuting route led to the development of rest houses along the way, and no wonder their existence today is seeped in History, with the old visitor books showing names of famous visitors like Marco Pallis or Giuseppe Tucci. To quote 'Deepak Sanan' & 'Dhanu Swadi' from their book 'Exploring Kinnaur and Spiti in the Trans Himalaya' -"The romance of the old HT road lies not only in the excitement of retracing a legendary route trod by many adventurous feet but also in the fact that it chronicles in its passage a remarkable transition in climate, vegetation, terrain, people and culture. From the monsoon fed greenery of the foothills, through the snow clad peaks of the main Himalayan ranges, to the barren aridity bordering Tibet, thepeople and their lifestyle change as vividly as the landscape "In its early days, the OLD HT road was a broad bridle path. While most travelers wrote accounts of their journeys from Shimla onwards, it is believed and should hold true that the Road actually starts from Kalka, which means its a total journey of about 450 kms to Shipki La from Kalka. In the olden days horses were used to transport the people and luggage to Shimla, when there was no Railway and The now wonderful Kalka-Shimla highway. It started from Kalka, found its way into Kasauli and Gambhar Pul (where a bridge still stands as testimony to its glorious past) and past small villages of Subathu, Kunihar reached Shimla. From here it wound its way through Narkanda, climbed towards Baghi and followed the ridgeline through Khadrala and Sungri to reach modern day Taklech from where it descended to Rampur (Bushahar), however there were two bridle paths which were built one going over the Daranghati pass over to Mashnu and then reaching Sarahan, home to The Goddess Bhimakali. Sarahan onwards it kept on the higher ridge, with the Sutlej far below and wound its way through Chaura, Taranda, Ponda, Nichar, Tapri, Urni and finally Kalpa. (The stretch from Sarahan to Nichar of the OLD HT is Now a wonderful trekking route where one stays at the century old rest Houses). At Nichar, THESE days one descends to main highway (NH22), only to climb towards Urni after Tapri (this all ismotorable now). From Urni we wind our way flanked by the grand view of the Kinner Kailash Massif, towards Kalpa. After Kalpa, it again ascends towards Pangi village and then descends towards Aren and further to Jangi. From Jangi the famous Kanum monastery is 16kms as we continue further up on the road towards Pooh. From Pooh the road descends again to meet the Sutlej at Dubling and then we start the ascent towards Namgia village 15 kms, the last village bordering Tibet before Shipki La. This is the route of the OLD HT road.To explore this legendary route, in these days, we can start the journey and complete it in 6 days. The more adventurous can plan a complete motorcycle or a mountain biking tour starting from Kalka. For trekkers there is the option of Sarahan to Kalpa route, and even more. One can extend the trip and also visit The Spiti Valley (like Harrer did in seven years in Tibet), and cross over to Manali via the Kunzum La.

EXPERIENCE THE SPLENDOR AND ROMANCE OF THE OLD HT ROAD IN OUR UPCOMING JULY TRIP APTLY CALLED TRANQUILITY
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THE DAK BUNGALOW TRAILS OF HIMACHAL PRADESH

During the pre independence days, in the mountains, when there were no roads,the babus and the common alike used the bridle paths. You must remember those old stories of traveling from village to village and how people used to spend days on these paths. In Himachal these old footpaths are still used, and you will find Dak ...Bungalows after every 12 kms in the state. Some of these are over a century old and some even date back to 1800’s.Travelwithdj Outdoors invites you to this wonderful journey to these timeless classics, as we retrace the steps of days gone by, and we promise you, it sure is awakening as much as it is refreshing. We will outfit for your travel in your style WALK, CYCLE, MOTORCYCLE, 4 WHEELS. Lets us know how many days and we chalk out the best plan for you. happy trails ....... destinations galore, Seog, Kullu saraun, Taranda, arsu, Nichar, and many more ...

You know when we were trying to design this product at Travel with Dj, we had a long discussion before, you know, just talking about our travels in the state and how we have stayed at so many wonderful places around the whole place. But we all came to the conclusion that nothing can... beat the old worldly charm of staying at rest houses any where. Especially the old ones, yes, there are what they call new rest houses (brick and mortar structures against the backdrop of grand Himalayan vistas). There is a certain image which we think we might share with everyone; thinking of these old rest houses or Dak Bungalows as they are known in old lingo, An old Chowkidar who has spent his life taking care and upkeeping the place, a certain supernatural aura surrounding these places (ooof!) deep jungles, stories of wild animals, ghosts and pre independence Mem Sahibs and their rendevouz with eloping officers and staying at these places. Well, to say some might even hold true, for in the visitor guest lists of these rest houses you do find references dating back to as far 1890's. And the locations where the rest houses are, exquisite and exclusive. There is another trivia - and this might interest the hikers, cyclists and motorcyclists alike - All the rest houses in Himachal Pradesh - at least the old ones are 12 KMS APART ... so if you say you start from Shimla, the next place where you would unwind is 12kms and so on -- At least thats what it used to be in the old days, traveling on foot you reached your night halt after 12 kms .... Makes sense ... Imagine! A deep forest, small villages, Himalayan Outdoors ... Makes you want to unwind .. and retrace these Bridle Paths ... Get in touch with the forest department Himachal Pradesh to make your bookings .. or if you want to relax and let Trails Tales do the outfitting .. connect with us ... We will outfit your holiday for HIKING, CYCLING, MOTORCYCLING, 4 Wheel Road Trip and book the places and also if you ask send across a field expert .... These trips are ONLY FOR SMALL GROUPS - Maximum 8 people ... You have destinations to choose from ... Give us a buzz or write in ... We will be glad to help you out ... Cheers and Regards - Dj