Himachal Pradesh - Spectacular scenery, cool temperatures, opportunities for skiing, white water rafting and trekking combine to make Himachal Pradesh India's favorite mountain area. Tens of thousands of visitors come every summer to Simla which was the summer headquarters of the government during the days of the British and is now the state's capitol. They come to the beautiful Kullu Valley with its apple orchards and deodar forests, to Dharamshala , which overlooks the equally beautiful Kangra Valley and is the home of the Dalai Lama and many other Tibetan exiles, and they visit the sulfur hot springs at Vashisht in the Kullu Valley. Pilgrims go the 1200 year old Shiva temple in Baijnath, in the Kangra Valley area, and to Kangra (town)'s famously wealthy Brajeshwari Devi temple (sacked and looted of its fortunes several times through history), as well as to the Jawalamukhi temple in the Beas Valley which houses an eternally burning flame and is the most popular pilgrimage destination in the state. Most of the Kinnaur area, in the east, is off limits to travelers because of its proximity to the border. Himachal Pradesh rises up quickly, from rice and wheat fields to apple orchards to pine forests and finally snowy peaks of over 6000 meters in the Pir Panjal, Dhauladhar and the great Himalayan Ranges. Between these are the fertile and beautiful Kangra and Kullu Valleys. In the far north are the remote valleys of Spiti and Lahaul, and in the south is the Sirmaur area, another very fertile valley. The lower, southern part of the state escapes the deep snows that cover the northern area and render many roads impassable and large areas of the state inaccessible from October or November to June.
The Outer Himalayas: - The altitude of this zone ranges from 350 meters (1050 feet) to 1500 meters (4500 feet) above mean sea level. This range of outer (lower) Himalayas is well known as 'Shivalik Hills' (also known as Manak Parbat in ancient times). Shivalik literally means 'tresses of the Shiva'. It covers the lower hills of district Kangra, Hamirpur, Una, Bilaspur and lower parts of Mandi, Solan and Sirmaur districts. The famous places in this zone are Paonta valley, Nahan tehsil, Pachhad and Renuka tehsils of Sirmaur districts, Balh valley and Jogindernagar area of Mandi district, Kangra, Dharamshala, Palampur and Dehra of district Kangra, Dalhousie, Bhattiyat, Churah and Chamba tehsil of Chamba district. The annual rainfall in this zone varies from 1500 mm to 1800 mm. The climate and soil of this zone is suitable for the cultivation of maize, wheat, sugarcane, ginger, citrus fruits and table potatoes.
The Inner Himalayas: - The altitude of this zone varies from 1500 meters (4500 feet) to 4500 meters (13,500 feet) above mean sea level. The Himalayas in this zone show a gradual elevation towards the Dhauladhar (Dhauladhar means White Peak) and Pir Panjal Ranges. Areas in this zone are tehsil Pachad (upper areas), District Sirmaur, Karsog and Chachiote tehsils of Mandi district, the upper areas of district Kangra and Palampur tehsil of Kangra district, upper hills of District Shimla (capital of Himachal Pradesh) and upper parts of tehsil Churah of Chamba district. There is a very high peak of Choordhar (3,647 meters or 10,941 feet) to the south of Shimla. The positional rise of the Himalayas is constant to the North of Satluj the longitudinal valleys in Himachal Pradesh divide the series of parallel ranges but there is also an exception as the Kullu valley runs transverse to the main alightment. The Himalayas continue to rise from plain areas to the Hilly areas. The climate and soil in this zone is suitable to temperature fruits and seed potatoes. Dhauladhar branch of the great Himalayas starts from the near Badrinath (in U.P.) and (just like a fairy tale to me spoken by the great Himalayas) it is intercepted by the river Satluj at Rampur-Bushahar, by the river Beas at Larji and by the river Ravi at the south-west of Chamba. In Bara-Banghal, the northern side of Dhauladhar strikes against the southern side of the Pir-Panjal range at twisty mountain of Bara- Banghal. In Dhauladhar range fall the breathtakingly beautiful landscapes. Dhauladhar is like a sweet twist of the great Himalayas. There is a sudden rise in Dhauladhar Mountains of 3,600 meters or 10,800 feet above the Kangra valley. Pir-Panjal is the largest range of the lower Himalayas and it separates itself from the Himalayas near the bank of Satluj River, so it makes a water-divide between the rivers Beas and Ravi on the one side and the river Chenab on the other side. Pir-Panjal range makes a turn towards the Dhauladhar range near Bara-Banghal that is the source of the river Ravi.
The Greater Himalayas: - The altitude of this zone ranges from 4500 meters (13,500 feet) to the highest points of the great Himalayas in different areas. The Great Himalayan Range Rivers along the Eastern boundary. The Satluj River divides it and separates the Spiti's (Lahaul-Spiti) drainage from Beas. Areas in this zone are district Kinnaur, tehsil Pangi of Chamba district and some areas of Lahaul and Spiti. The normal rainfall in this zone is low. The climate in this zone is not cold in summer and of semi-arctic nature in winter. The soil is thick and supports variable fertility. The climate in this zone is very suitable for cultivation of dry fruits. Rainfall in this zone is low but Snowfall is very heavy. Snowfall in this zone starts in the mid of October-November to March-April. Snowfall is so heavy and geographical conditions are so odd that during the period of snowfall, the whole region remains cut off from the rest of the world. During the period of snowfall in this zone, the quality of life suffers and life looks very isolated. The famous Zanskar Range is also found in this part of the Himalayas which is Eastern most range. This range acts like a big wall by separating Spiti and Kinnaur from Tibet. Zanskar Range has a number of very high peak points rising over 6,500 meters (19,500 feet). The highest among its peaks is Shilla which is 7,025 meters (21,075 feet) high. The second one is Reo-Purgyal which is 6,791 meters (20,373 feet) high.
Shimla district lies between 30°45' and 31°44 North Latitude and between 77°0' and 78°19' East Longitude. It is bounded by Mandi and Kullu in North, Kinnaur in the East, the state of Uttar Pradesh in the South and by Sirmaur district in the West. Shimla derived its name from 'Shyamala' - the name of Goddess Kali whose temple once existed in the forest which covered Jakhoo Hills. The place gained prominence after the British arrived here in 1819. They made it their summer capital in 1864. With its enticing location, the incomers were quick to explore the surrounding Shivalik foothills and before long, some of the worlds’ first trekking agencies were set up here, offering treks to officers and their families. By 1921, Shimla had a branch of the Himalayan Club which assisted with expeditions across the Western Himalaya. These adventurous Victorian colonialists chose their town well. To the north and north-east lies the Great Himalayan Range dividing the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. Slightly to the west are the Dhauladhar, cutting through the heart of Himachal Pradesh into eastern Uttaranchal. And beyond these mountains lie the complex Trans Himalaya that include the Zanskar and Ladakhi ranges. Perhaps a near perfect setting for exploring the Himalaya Shimla is situated in the North-West Himalayas and is spread over the ridge measuring about 12 km. The hills are robed with dense forests of oak, deodar, pine, fur and rhododendron. The high mountain peaks, steep slopes, deep valleys, waterfalls, rapids and colorful natural flowers form the scenic natural beauty of Shimla attracts tourists from all over the world. The important tourist destinations are the Kali Bari temple, Jakhoo Temple, Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, Prospect Hill and Chadwick falls. The highest cricket ground in the world is at Chail. Shimla also offers adventure sports such as skiing, trekking, fishing and golfing. Though the British had left the city long back, the echoes of the colonial era still lingers on. The snow clad mountains, picturesque surroundings and the mighty structures of Victorian style that dots the city, positions it apart from other hill stations of the country.
Distances – 88 kms NE of Kalka, 115 km NE of Chandigarh, 234 Km NW of Dehradun, 342 Km N of Delhi.
Distance – 14km N of Shimla
The Shali Tibba (2867m) is the highest peak in the vicinity of Shimla. It is a magnificent isolated pinnacle with a Kali temple on the top. The ascent up to Shali is an ancient trail through dense pine forests and rolling alpine pastures. It is a steep and steady climb to the often mist enveloped peak. The peak commands an unforgettable view of endless snow covered ranges along with the Sutlej valley and the densely forested hills of Shimla, Fagu and Narkanda. For the avid photographer and nature lover, this one-day trek offers the experience of a lifetime.
DETAILED ITINERARY:
SHIMLA (2205 m) - MASHOBRA - KHATNOL (1850 m)...45 km.
Depart Shimla at 6 A.M. by jeep. Breakfast at Mashobra, noted for its apple Orchards and thick woods of oak and pine. Proceed via Baldeyan along a fascinating dirt track to Gulshaini, a tiny hamlet (1250 m) situated at the base of the peak. From Gulshaini it is a steady climb along a rough road till Khatnol, an isolated village perched amidst rolling fields. Here we park the jeep to start the ascent.
KHATNOL - SHALI TIBBA (2867m)...8 km.
Halt at the Khatnol Forest Rest House for a well-deserved break along with a sumptuous lunch. Begin the climb to Shali after a short rest. The landscape changes dramatically as we follow the ancient trail towards the peak. It is a three-hour climb at a leisurely pace with ample time to stand and stare at the surrounding magnificence and the imposing peak looming ahead. The final climb is a tough one and is amply rewarded by the breathtaking view from the top.
SHALI TIBBA - KHATNOL - SHIMLA
After a visit to the historic temple and a frenzied session of photography, we start the surprisingly quick descent down to Khatnol. One is back in the jeep by sunset to start the drive back to Shimla. Reach Shimla by late evening for a well-deserved and satisfying sleep with the memories of climbing the highest peak of the Shimla hills.
Naldehra – 30 km NE of Shimla lies Naldehra perched at 6706ft, it boasts of an 18 hole (played twice over) golf course, developed by Lord Curzon in the pre independence era of the British, making it India’s oldest golf course. When not playing golf, there are numerous walks through the thick woods at Naldehra, rich in flora.
Craignano – 3kms from Mashobra, Craignano is one more old pre independence era retreat, named after the Italian countess of Craignano. In 1890 Craignano was turned in to the united service club. Craignano’s another claim to fame is the world’s highest water lift (7657 ft) built by the British that still serves Shimla.
Tattapani – 35 kms from Naldehra Tattapani on the banks of the river Sutlej is famous for its healing sulphur springs. Also there is an old cave dedicated to lord Shiva, discovered in the 1950’s. 11 kms from Tattapani is Chabba, the put up point for white water rafting on the Sutlej.
Kufri – 14 kms from Shimla main town, Kufri is famous for its ski slopes. Skiing in winter and walks, pony rides, mountain biking in the summer makes Kufri an ideal out door destination east of Shimla. One should also the visit the Himalayan Nature Park, housing black and brown bears, leopards and gorals. The crowded Mahasu peak is also a point of interest.
Narkanda - A hiss road with superb views links Narkanda with Shimla. Narkanda, located amidst fragrant pine forests is a ski resort in winter. It has a choice of slopes ranging from a beginner run and slalom slope, to sharper descents for the experienced skier. What gives Narkanda its awe-inspiring view of the snowy peaks is the fact that it is located on the ridge of the last watershed before the Himalayan range. Below Narkanda, to the north is the Sutlej Valley and beyond it is the snowy massif. The ridge on which Narkanda stands is the watershed between the Sutlej on the north and the Giri River. The sleepy town of Narkanda sits astride the watershed between the Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal.
Hatu Peak – The highest peak of Shimla district is at a distance of 8kms from Narkanda. Dedicated on the top is a temple of Hateshwari Mata. One can drive up to the top and cycle back down to Narkanda, a great downhill trail. 20 minutes from Hatu peak are the meadows of Jaubagh, ideal for lazing and a perfect setting for a picnic lunch.
Thanedar – 18 kms from Narkanda, Thanedar and Kotgarh are the heart of Himachal’s apple country. First planted by Samuels Stokes in 1912, it was the answer to the regions poverty in those days, now the Kotgarh apples are supplied throughout India. Thanedar is a small one street village surrounded by orchards and an ideal holiday destination.
The villages of Khadrala and Baghi are located in the northeastern part of Shimla District, 18 and 29 kms from Narkanda respectively, in Himachal Pradesh and are surrounded by dense forest and apple orchards. They fall on the old road to Tibet.
Sungri is a charming hamlet situated about 32 km from Rohru in Shimla District, Himachal Pradesh. It lies in the Pabbar Valley. Surrounded by lush green forests and towered hills, Sungri offers excellent views of Chanshal, Dhauladhar peaks and deep valleys. Many overflowing streams can be seen around the village. Chirgaon, Dhamwari, Dodra and Kwar, Baghi, Intkali and Larot are nearby tourist destinations. Sungri is famous for trout fishing. It is an ideal base for trekking.
Hatkoti & Rohru – 104 kms E of Shimla, Hatkoti opens out in the Pabbar valley. Durga is worshipped as the Hatkeshwari Mata here and pilgrims from Uttarakhand and Himachal hold this as very holy place. A wonderful 15 km drive along the Pabbar River brings us to Rohru the administrative centre of the region.
Kharapathar – 25 kms from Hatkoti on the Theog road is Kharapathar, literally meaning Standing rock, which is the highlight of the region. Giriganga 6kms away is a sacred spot, well as sacred as Haridwar but far tougher to reach. From Giriganga it’s a two hour walk to the loveliest meadows of the region known as Kuppar.
Taklech is a picturesque hamlet situated about 13 km from Nogli in Shimla District, Himachal Pradesh. Surrounded by thick and untouched forests, the village is an ideal base for trekking. Treks to Sarahan, Chirgaon and Larot begin from Taklech. Nearby tourist destinations include Rohru, Bahli, Nichar, Sungri, Larot and Dodra and Kwar.
Daranghati Sanctuary is one of the highlights of Shimla District. Popular of the inhabitants here are Monal, Tragopan, koklas, goral, kalij, musk deer and Thar. There is a network of bridle paths and inspection paths to explore the sanctuary. Daranghati is also a perfect venue for those who wish to trek along the mountain heights.
Nirmund, known as the ‘Kashi of the Himalayas', is the largest and most ancient village, situated in Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh. This beautiful hamlet stands overlooking the Satluj Valley. Nirmund is renowned for its exquisite wood and stone temples of the 6th and the 7th centuries. Steeped in history, its existence dates back to early Vedic period and the name is derived from the Sanskrit word 'nar-mund', which means a man’s head. It is believed that Lord Parashuram made the Brahmins settle here to eliminate the Kshatriyas, from the face of the earth. Nirmund is famous for its annual Buddi Diwali fair, which falls one month after Diwali and the Bhunda festival, celebrated once in 12 years. The principal shrine of Nirmand, Parashuram Temple is built in the traditional Pahari styled double-storeyed building with gabled slate roof. This temple resembling a hill fortress encloses a small courtyard with the only entrance from the western side. The northern part is a double-storeyed structure, which stores priceless artifacts. The elaborate carvings on the exterior wooden balconies and pillars illustrate stories from Hindu mythology. Nearby temple of Devi Ambika and Lord Shiva are also worth seeing. The ancient temple of Devi Ambika in Nirmand is said to have been established by Lord Parashuram, the 6th incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The uniqueness is that its roof is made of pure copper sheet. Devi Ambika Temple also preserves several old stone sculptures.
Kullu Sarahan – At the base of Bashleo Pass, Kullu Sarahan is a big meadow with a forest rest house. Still untouched the place is an ideal camping ground and a base for many treks in the region. And to the road lover one of the best drives in the region.
Sarahan, is a small town on the old Hindustan-Tibet road, perched a distance above the new highway. It offers panoramic views of snow covered peaks and a picture of unspoilt pastoral life in the region. A beautifully constructed temple of the goddess Bhimakali stands here.
INNER AND OUTER SERAJ VALLEYS Accessible from Kullu and Shimla by road. The Jalori and Bashleo passes stand as markers between the Inner and Outer Seraj regions of Kullu. Outer Seraj faces Shimla district and reaches out to touch the river Sutlej and Inner Seraj turns towards Kullu. Ani near Sutlej provides the access point to Outer Seraj from Shimla. The 5155 m Srikhand Mahadev Peak is a part of Outer Seraj. Beyond the Jalori Pass the scenic splendor of the Inner Seraj area unfolds. This area has variety of trek routes.
The Jalori Pass Situated 100 kms from Shimla in Kullu district, the Jalori Pass is far away from the urban rigmarole, in the silent wilderness of the Himalayas where every flower truly enjoys the air it breathes. The seasonal blossoms set the hills on fire in their rich variant hues. Cradled within a yet untouched forest heartland, the Jalori Pass offers Nature’s breathing life – bountiful flora and fauna amidst the pristine solitude of the highlands. Birds, butterflies and flowers of various hues line the alpine meadows, woods and valleys all along the slopes of Jalori. The fragrance of Lillies, Primulas, Asters, Gentians, Rhododendrons along with various rare herbs and medicinal plants please the senses while the stunning views make a winning snapshot for the camera -friendly. Twittering and gushing forth their songs, a plethora of Himalayan feathered species are annually visited by the Gujjars and Gaddis during spring, which return in the months of October and November. For the adventure seeker, the chance meeting with a wandering leopard, a shy Himalayan black bear or a rare Pine Martin for wildlife lovers adds to the excitement. The forests of Jalori are a tribute to the magnificence of nature. Treks to unforgettable places like the Sreolsar Lake, Shoja, Lambri, Sakiran, Bashleo Pass and the Great Himalayan National Park as well as the forts of Raghunathpur, Kalagarh and Fatehpurgarh offer endless options to the explorer. Nature trails all across the Jalori region are unfolded by our expert naturalists describing the myriad species of flora and fauna that infest the slopes of Jalori while the unassuming hamlets dotting the forests unfold a warm and unique rural culture. Trout fishing in the Tirthan River at Larji and Gushaini add to the charm. For the religious, this celestial spot proffers temples of deities native to the Kullu soil. Jalori Mata’s Temple at Jalori Pass, Mahakali Temple at Lambri, Buri Nagan’s Temple at Sreolsar Lake, Brahmandrishi, the local God of Shoja and Sgringdrashij at Cheine are the exotically carved temples steeped in the myths of this magical land. Festive occasions are celebrated with pious devotion in the region. The Banjar Mela, Bali Chauki Mela, Shoja, Gushaini and Kullu Dussehras are some of the well – attended festivities.
Shoja in Inner SERAJ is close to the Jalori Pass. A charming unspoilt location of exceptional beauty overlooking lush meadows and tall snow-capped ranges, Shoja is 69 km from Kullu via Aut. The Raghupur Fort, a lovely grassy meadow close to Shoja is worth visiting.
Gadah Gushaini is a picturesque valley located in Mandi District of Himachal Pradesh. Major point of attraction is the Madhopur Fort, an ancient monument built by the former rulers of Mandi. The fort was once used as a storehouse to keep the arms and ammunition of the emperors. Another point of the attraction is the Tungasi Fort, which is now in ruins. Gadah Gushaini, with its beautiful surroundings and evergreen forests, is an ideal place for adventure enthusiast.
Jhanjehli is a picturesque hamlet in the midst of thick forest and enchanting springs, renowned as a hiker’s paradise offering various treks up to a height of 3320 m. Untouched by the frills of modernity, Jhanjehli provides an ideal getaway from the daily life chores, in a way quite different from that offered by routine and packaged holidays. Jhanjehli presents a charming picture of nature’s splendor at work; its lush green meadows surrounded by lofty pines and deodars and the meandering rivulet captivates the imagination of any nature lover. Pretty orchards carpet the left side of the village. It is said that, lured by the beauty of the place, the British first decided to make Jhanjehli as the summer capital, an offer which was eventually turned down by the then king of Jhanjehli. The famous roofless temple of Shikari Devi and Shikari Devi Sanctuary are within 15 km from Jhanjehli.
