The words “trekking” and “hiking” are used somewhat interchangeably, but a trek more often refers to a long distance walk along age-old trails, usually in remote areas far from roads or highways. And how many miles do we walk each day? That’s tough to say (especially in the mountains where there are a lot of ups and downs or we take it slowly because of high altitude). We usually characterize the hiking day in terms of hours. On most treks, we hike from four to six hours a day (with an occasional eight hour day). We start early, have a long lunch stop, and arrive at the next camp by mid afternoon, with time to rest and relax before dinner, explore nearby villages, read or write in our journals. During the day, there is ample time to stop and take photos, admire a view, search for an elusive bird. Above all we encourage you to walk at your own pace. You’re here to have fun! On most trips, porters, pack animals or vehicles carry all the gear. All you need to carry is a small daypack to hold a water bottle, camera and sweater/jacket.
The Jalori Pass
Rest Houses of the Raj Era
Rest Houses of the Raj Era
Trip duration: 8 DAYS / 7 NIGHTS
ALTITUDE: Max. Height: 3560 M (11650 ft.) REGION: KULLU & SHIMLA
IDEAL OPERATIONAL PERIOD: 1st April to 15th July, 15th Sept. to 1st December
By road. Afternoon visit town. Ani is a small town with modern amenities. O/N in rest house.
2ND DAY: ANI - CHOWAI (1880 M)...11 km.
An easy ascent to start the trek with. Route through villages, forests and glens. O/N in a quaint and old rest house situated amidst fairyland surroundings.
3RD DAY: CHOWAI - TAKRASI (2250 M)...12 km.
Route continues to ascend across the valley through an increasing abundance of flora and fauna. Takrasi is an isolated village off the beaten track. O/N in another charming rest house.
4TH DAY: TAKRASI - KHANAG (2530 M) ...12 km.
The ascent continues as the vegetation changes with the increasing altitude. Khanag is a quaint hamlet with an unforgettable view of the surrounding magnificence of some of the thickest forest areas of Himachal. O/N in rest house.
5TH DAY: KHANAG - SREO-SAR LAKE (3560 M) - JALORI PASS (3223 M)...12 km.
Moderate to steep gradient through whispering coniferous forests up to the beautiful and mystic Sreo-Sar lake. After lunch next to an exquisitely carved ancient temple on the banks of the lake, walk along a level ridge to the Jalori Pass for pick-up by vehicle to return to the guesthouse at Khanag.
6TH DAY: KHANAG–JALORI PASS-RAGHUNATHPUR FORT-SHOJA (2683m)...7 km.
Leave the rest house by vehicle till the pass and start the trek. To the left of the pass are the ruins of the historical Raghunathpur Fort (3306m). A gradual walk through enchanting scenery brings one to the fort. After lunch and exploring the ruins, descend to Shoja, a camper’s delight. O/N in a magnificent guesthouse made entirely of polished wood.
7TH DAY: SHOJA - JIBBI (2050)...7 km.
Steep descent till Ghiaggi through the beautiful Jibbi valley. After the bewitching hamlet of Ghiaggi, it is a short level walk till Jibbi. O/N in guesthouse.
8TH DAY: JIBBI - SHIMLA...235 km. / BANJAR - MANALI...95 km.
By road. After pick-up from Banjar, proceed to Shimla/ Manali to end a memorable experience.
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The Jalori Pass
Walking the Jalori Pass
TOUR DURATION: 4 DAYS / 3 NIGHTS
ALTITUDE: Max. Height: 3560 M (11650 ft.) REGION: KULLU & SHIMLA
IDEAL OPERATIONAL PERIOD: 1st April to 15th July, 15th Sept. to 1st December
Situated a 7-8 hrs. drive from Shimla, the famed Jalori Pass Beas and the Sutlej valleys, the silent wilderness of Jalori transports one from the daily urban rigmarole to the solitude of the highlands. Jalori is known to be one of the most abundant flora and fauna regions of the Himalayas . The unique rural culture along with the old forest guesthouses, relics of the British Raj era which line the Jalori trails all through, make for a journey into time.
By road. Depart 9 A.M. It is a 6-7 hours drive through fascinating landscape. Khanag is a quaint hamlet with a wonderful view of the mountains. O/N in rest house.
DAY 2: KHANAG - SREO-SAR LAKE - SHOJA (2683 M).
Till Jalori top we travel by road. To the right of the pass is the Sreo-Sar Lake at a distance of 4 kms. The trek to the lake is a gradual one. After visiting the lake, return to the pass where the vehicle would be waiting to pick up to move ahead to Shoja, a delightful place considered by many to be one of the most beautiful camping spots in Himachal. O/N in guesthouse.
DAY 3: SHOJA - BANJAR (1524 M)...14km.
Route descends to Jibbi valley through forests. A long but easy walk. O/N in guesthouse.
DAY 4: BANJAR - SHIMLA
By road. Start early morning to return to Shimla. Arrive Shimla late evening. End of tour.
The Jalori Pass
The Forests of Jalori
Tour duration: 10 DAYS / 9 NIGHTS
ALTITUDE: Max. Height: 11600 ft. REGION: KULLU & SHIMLA IDEAL OPERATIONAL PERIOD: 1st April to 15th July, 15th Sept. to 1st December
By road via Rampur. Nirmund is a small town and is the seat of Parshu Ram’s and Devi Ambika's ancient temples. Overnight in rest house.
2ND DAY: NIRMUND TO ARSU (6050 ft.).... 14 Km.
The route crosses the Gai Pass. It is a hot day’s walk to Arsu through dramatically changing landscape. Overnight in rest house.
3RD DAY: ARSU TO SARAHAN (KULLU) (8000 ft.).... 12 Km.
A gradual climb tills the beautiful Sarahan valley. Enroute there are sweeping views of the Nirmand and Seraj valleys. Overnight in rest house.
4TH DAY: SARAHAN TO TARALA (7720 ft.).... 13 Km. Almost level walking through the splendour of untouched Himalayan flora till Tarala, a tiny village isolated in the wilderness of the Seraj region. Overnight in rest house.
5TH DAY: TARALA TO CHOWAI (5450 ft.).... 11 Km.
A long but exotic day's walking. From Tarala its a wonderfully interesting walk till Chowai. The rest house in Chowai is situated in a most picturesque location.
6TH DAY: CHOWAI TO KHANAG (8800 ft.).... 10 Km.
7TH DAY: KHANAG - SREO-SAR LAKE (11650 ft.) - JALORI PASS (10540 ft.)...12 km.
8TH DAY: JALORI PASS - SHOJA (8780 ft.)...7 km.
Gradual descent through enchanting scenery till Shoja, campers delight. O/N in a beautiful guest house made entirely of polished wood.
9TH DAY: SHOJA - JIBBI (6800 ft.)...7 km.
Steep descent till Ghiaggi through the Jibbi valley. After Ghiaggi it's a short level walk till Jibbi. O/N in guesthouse.
10TH DAY: JIBBI - SHIMLA...235 km. / BANJAR - MANALI...95 km.
By road. After pick-up from Banjar, proceed to Shimla or Manali. End of tour.
Charabara in Shimla is surrounded on three sides by the magnificent Shimla Water Catchment Sanctuary, a 125 year old sanctuary that was established by the British as a reserved forest. The sanctuary was the initial source of water for Shimla, the water pumped to Shimla town through a series of steam pumps, reputed to be the first of their kind in the country. Today this pristine and undisturbed forest stretches across an area of 12 square kilometres and is considered by many as one of the wealthiest storehouses of Himalayan flora. This extremely dense forest is also the habitat for a vast variety of fauna, the most prominent being the Leopard. Although a sighting of this extremely human-shy and nocturnal animal is very rare, regular reports of droppings prove the existence of a large population within the sanctuary. The Himalayan Black Bear and the Brown Bear, Barking Deer, Goral, Jackal, Indian Red Fox, Striped Hyena and the Yellow-Throated Martin are some of the species of wildlife that thrive in the undisturbed forests of the sanctuary. A wide variety of bird and pheasant species can also be spotted in the lower altitude belts of the sanctuary, some of the more prominent ones being the Cheer, Koklas and Khaleej pheasants, the Himalayan Pied Woodpecker, the Great Himalayan Barbet and some sparklingly colorful minivets. A bifurcation penetrates deep into the sanctuary along a prominent ridgeline. Descend down to the Seyog Forest Rest House, a hundred year old lathe and plaster (Dhajji) structure located in the midst of this silent forest. The narrow trail undulates for an hour or more through one of the best-preserved forests in Asia. Cedars, Firs, Pines and Oaks jostle each other for space and the canopy-density at places prevents even the sunlight from peeping through to the forest floor. Droppings and pugmarks of the fauna are regular sightings along this trail and if ones luck holds out, a perky Barking Deer too might flash past in gay abandon. As one would guess, this is an excellent site for some bird-watching too.
The trip continues after a night at the Seog forest rest house navigating the Old Hindustan Tibet road (also National Highway 22) towards Narkanda. The morning is spent hiking to the top of Hatu Peak @ 2900 mtrs and then descending from there to Baghi a refreshing walk through whispering pines. The overnight stay is at Baghi rest house built in 1906. The next day we have an option of either riding the mountain road till Sungri or taking it easy in the comfort of our Jeeps. Upon reaching sungri we indulge in yet another walk to the meadow of Muraldanda 3500 mts, offering grand views of the Himalayas. Descend in time to reach sungri rest house. The next day is a meandering ride through the old HT road, with brief stopovers at Bahli and Taklech both offering brilliant views of the Srikhand Himalayas. The ride is exciting as we drive past a high road flanked by high cliffs and a dense forest. After Taklech it’s a 29 kms of a looping road towards daran pass. This is Katrech Ghati and Daranghati our night halt has a rest house dating back again to the late 1800’s. The next morning again we have a choice of cycling downhill towards Mashnu and then towards Sarahan, passing through Kinnu cliffs. At Sarahan we visit the 800 year old Bhimakali temple and thereafter it’s a walk through the unused section of the Old HT road towards Taranda. The rest house here again dates back to late 1800’s. The 11 kms walk takes 4-5 hours.
From Taranda we have the option of either covering the whole distance to Nichar in 2 days and descending to Wangtu in Kinnaur, or we walk back to Sarahan and drive back to Shimla.
THE ITINERARY
Day Zero
Board the evening Volvo bus from Delhi and journey to Shimla. This is a nine hour comfortable journey.
Day One Seog Rest house.Arrive at Shimla at 0600 hrs, where cabs awaiting your arrival transfer you to Seog Shimla water catchment sanctuary. Check into the rest house and explore the forest area with an expert. Early evening you may take a trip to Shimla town to return by 1900 hrs. O/N rest house.
Day Two Seog rest House – Narkanda (walk to Hatu Peak and descend to Baghi)
A 70 kms road journey followed by a 3 hour walk to Hatu Peak. Visit the Hateshwari Mata temple and thereafter with a picnic lunch stopover at Jaubagh meadow descend to Baghi, actually 4 kms short of Baghi. Check into the rest house at Baghi.
Day Three Baghi – Khadrala – Sungri (walk to Muraldanda and Back) or a stay at Sungri RH
An early morning drive or a cycling ride to Sungri a distance 27 kms. Once at Sungri we start with our lunch packets and day packs attempting the steep ascent to Muraldanda perched at 3500mts. This is a long walk of 8 hours and involves overnight camping at the meadow. The other option is to stay put at sungri rest house and get your favorite book or hum away on your guitar.
Day Four Sungri – Bahli – Taklech – Deothi – Daranghati
Start at 0800 hours driving through the Old HT road and reach Daranghati by 1200 hrs. After check in at the rest house hike to Shiraikoti temple perched on a peak, a two hour hike. Thereafter hike back to the rest House.
Day Five Daranghati – Mashnu – Kinnu – Sarahan (4 hour walk to Taranda)
Another day when we have the option of cycling or driving to Sarahan, a 43 kms distance. At Sarahan visit the Bhimakali temple and after an early lunch at 1400 hrs hike through the unused section of the Old HT road, now a walking trail towards Taranda. You have the option of driving back to Shimla after visiting Sarahan, or else the walk and stay at Taranda is a resonating memory.
Day Six Sarahan – Luhri – Tattapani – Naldehra – Shimla
A day of driving along the Sutlej river towards Tattapani and then ascending towards Shimla to board your evening bus in time back to your destinanation or extend your stay at Shimla and stay another night at the Craignano Forest Rest house.
Sutlej , offers a brief view of the enchanting Sangla Valley Sutlej far below is clearly audible. The already steep hillsides turn sheer on the Roghi – Kalpa Stretch. The Roghi Cliffs, falling straight down to the river, clearly visible over 900 mts below, are a spectacle, a daunting area for those without a head for the heights and fraught with risk, as in the old days many an English Riders discovered if on a skittish horse. Roghi again has a comfortable, two roomed, over 100 years old rest house looking down to the village situated across a small stream with the grand vista of the Kinner Kailash range as a background.
SPITI WALKABOUTS
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. Komik Monastery: The Komic Lundup Tsemo Gonpa (Monastery) is one of the world’s highest at 4587mts. Komik Gonpa was earlier located near Hikkim and had to be shifted to its present location after an earthquake destroyed the earlier Gonpa. The Gonpa is well maintained and the local lamas (monks) can provide a guided tour.
2. Kum Kum Cave: a short jaunt (1.5 to 2 hours) from the village brings one to the kum kum cave, a meditation retreat for the lamas (monks) of the Monastery. Bharals (Blue Sheep) are the frequent visitors of this area and usually make for easy sighting.
3. A visit to the ruins of the old Sakyapa Monastery about a 3 hour walk from Komic. The legend goes that it was foretold in Tibet that there would be 3 streams meeting at a point above which there would be a mountain in the shape of a heart, where the current monastery should be placed. The paradox of this monastery is that even though there were 3 streams flowing in the vicinity, yet the Monastery was abandoned due to water scarcity after an earthquake. As per local folklore it is said that the presiding deity “Maha kala” of the Monastery had blessed 6 Bharals ( blue sheep) which live in the vicinity of the Monastery till date. The fortunate may well be blessed with the sightings of these creatures.
Day 3: Komic to Demul
Duration: 6 to 7 Hours
Komic: 4513mts
Demul: 4357mts
It is advisable to start this day early (7.00 am). The route stretches eastwards over the grazing lands of the Spitian highlands along the Pasham Range. Adequate snowfall in the winters transforms this frost bitten cold desert landscape into a lush green carpet of diverse flora. A slow ascent from Komic village lasting about 1 hour 30 minutes brings one to Chamai Lapchai (4717 mts), the first pass en-route to Demul. From here one gets a panoramic view of various peaks such as Cho-Cho Khang Namo, Cho-Cho Khang Nilda, Pin peak, Pasham range, Cho-Kula, Hull peak, etc. Here one also encounters herds of livestock brought up from the villages for grazing on these rich and nutritious pasturelands. The snow cock, although an elusive bird, can be sighted in this area. From the Chamai Lapchai a gradual walk of about 3 hours, with an abundance of medicinal plants and other flora of the Spitian Highlands, brings one to the grazing lands of Demul village. En-route a place called Faisa Dunggo (4674mts) is an ideal location to get a look at various medicinal plants such as Chey (Somlata), Bursay, Patish, Thama, etc. Wildlife such as the Tibetan Wolf, Red Fox and the Snow Cock can also be sighted here. A temporary settlement called Doksa, made by the villagers for the purpose of grazing their livestock is an ideal halt for a quick bite of lunch. Just before the Doksa is a place called Chomali Tanka, which is an ideal location for camping with a vast open area, also used at times for horse riding. Thereafter an ascent of about 1 hour brings one to the Young Lapchai (4717mts), which is one of the highest passes while trekking within Spiti. From here one gets a panoramic view of Cho_Cho Khang Nilda, Manirang (the second highest peak of Spiti rising to an altitude of 6593mts), Yulsa, Cho Kula, Hull peak, Shishu Pang, Pin peak and the Pasham range. A steep descent of about 30 minutes brings one to the entrance of Demul village which is adorned by Mane walls (stones intricately carved with religious prayers) called Ma Dhang Ringbo (4475mts). As per local custom one should always circumvent them clockwise. From here another descent of about 30 minutes through the fields of barley and peas brings you to the village of Demul situated at an altitude of 4357mts.
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. Mulchay (Pasture Lands) Duration- 8 Hours: An ideal location for sighting wildlife as well as the local cattle. The walk from the village lasts about 3 to 4 hours and one gets the opportunity to see a variety of flora and fauna. This area is ideal for sightings of the Blue Sheep, Tibetan Wolf, Red Fox, besides the local cattle.
2. Balaari Top (Total duration- 5 Hours): A 3 hour walk to Balaari top is worthwhile for anyone who wishes to have a bird’s eye view of the Spiti valley. This walk is a continuous and gradual climb to the top and subsequently a continuous descent back to the village. From this particular point one can see 18 villages of Spiti, the maximum number visible from any point in the entire valley. One also gets a spectacular view of various peaks such as Cho-Kula, Manirang, etc. This trek is best enjoyed on a Yak and if a Yak is not available a horse is also a good option.
3. Yulsa – This mountain has great religious significance for the inhabitants of Demul village. A Shivling adorns the top of this mountain and each year the villagers go to the top of this mountain to pour milk on it. The villagers go to pay oblations twice a year. As per their local custom first the men will go and then the women. From the village Yulsa top is about a 3 hour climb.
4. Langs (temples) – Demul village is adorned by two langs (temples). These are not as spectacular as the ones you find in the rest of the Spiti valley, though worth a visit. The Langs are situated within the village.
5. Zong phu (cave) - Immediately out of the village en-route to Lhalung, is the Zong phu which is about a 20 minute walk from Demul. This cave was used by the inhabitants of Demul as their post and also a safe hideout during attacks from outside, primarily from Lhalung.
Day 4: Demul to Lhalung
Duration: 4 to 5 Hours
Demul: 4357mts
Lhalung: 3758mts
Early mornings in Spiti are the appropriate time to start any walks. From Demul to Lhalung is a relatively easier trek with a steep initial descent through a narrow gorge lasting about 2 hours to the valley floor. Immediately out of Demul is the Zong phu which is about a 20 minute walk from the village. This cave was used by the inhabitants of Demul as their post and also a safe hideout during attacks from outside, primarily from Lhalung. The steep descent continues till the valley floor of the Padang river. From here on another 30 minute walk brings you to the quaint little hamlet of Sanglung (3612 mts). This village is ideal to take a quick lunch break amidst the green fields of barley and peas. From Sanglung you enter the Lingti valley and a gradual walk lasting about 1 hour will bring you to the bed of the Lingti River. The Samba (bridge), at an altitude of 3576 mts connecting Lhalung village to Sanglung has a local deity (by the name of Yulsa) resides here. It is a local custom to pay your regards by offering some food or drinks to the deity. Thereafter a steep ascent of about 1 hour will get you to the village of Lhalung. This entire stretch is full of diverse flora such as the wild rose, Seabuckthorn (Hippophae Rhamonides), Umboo (Myricaria Squamosa), juniperus macropoda, Ephedra Gerardiana, Arnebia Benthami, etc. The entry to the village is adorned by a line of Seabuckthorn trees on the edges of the fields.
Legend:
The name Lhalung literally means ‘Land of the Gods’ (Lha- Devtas (deities), Lung- Area). It is said that the Lhalung Devta is the head of all the Devtas of the Lingti Valley and is said to emerge from the Tangmar mountain located beyond the village in the Lingti valley. It is said that this mountain changes colour from time to time depicting the various moods (anger (red), happiness (yellow), etc) of the Devtas.
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. The Sarkhang (temple) – 3779 mts: This is one of the oldest temples in Spiti and is said to be more than a 1000 years old. According to legend, Lotsawa Rinchen Zangbo came here more than a thousand years ago and planted a willow tree, stating that if this tree would survive till the next year, a temple should be constructed in this location. The temple was said to have been constructed by the Devtas (deities) in a single night. The courtyard of the temple is still adorned by the same tree, planted more than 1000 years ago. The temple also has a tunnel which runs around it, meant for circumventing the temple clockwise according to the local custom. This tunnel had various paintings most of which have now completely disappeared due to lack of any maintenance. Outside the temple, is the Lang Karpo (Literally meaning ‘White Temple’), which has a statue of the Buddha sitting in all four directions, also said to have been built at the same time as the temple.
2. Cho Kula: This mountain is supposed to have a deity residing in it and hence holds great importance for the local people. Although the villagers have scaled the peak, there is no official record of its height.
Day 4: Lhalung to Dhankhar
Duration: 4 to 5 Hours
Lhalung: 3758m
Dhankhar: 3890 mts
The trek from Lhalung to Dhankhar is another relatively easy trek. The trek runs along the road and then gradually climbs up the hillside towards the direction of Dhankhar. After crossing over the ridge, the rock and mud pillars of Dhankhar come into view. A gradual decent brings one to the remains of the Dhankhar fort.
Legend:
Dhankhar originally called Dhakkhar (Dhak- Cliff, Khar- Palace), literally means ‘Palace on a cliff’. Dhankhar was the earlier capital of Spiti and was adorned by a stunningly unique and precariously balanced fort.
Places to Visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. Dhankhar Fort - The remains of the fort are placed at the top of the village and give a panoramic birds’ eye view of the Spiti and Pin valleys below.
2. Dhankhar Gonpa (Old Monastery): Traditionally known as the Dhankhar Lauot Gonpa, it is believed to be the first monastery built in Spiti and as per the local legend it will be the last to fall. This monastery belongs to the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism.
3. Dhankhar Monastery (New): The new monastery is located at the entrance of Dhankhar village.
4. Rural Museum: The museum houses some of the rare artefacts of Spiti, primarily donated by the villagers and the Monastery, some of which date back to almost a 1000 years.
5. Dhankhar Lake (4517 mts): The Dhankhar lake, a 1 hour 30 minutes steep climb from the village has a spectacular setting with its turquoise blue waters in the backdrop of the Spitian mountains. The lake is also frequented by the local fauna and if fortunate one can easily sight various birds and mammals of this region.
6. Cho Kula Peak: This mountain is supposed to have a deity residing in it and hence holds great importance for the local people. Although the villagers have scaled the peak, there is no official record of its height. This steep ascent could take anything between 8-9 hours and is advisable to do it as a two day trek.
7. Gung Chhumik (Meditation Centre): This meditation centre inhabited by a nun is 4 hours from Dhankhar village. A moderate walk of about 3 hours brings one to a place called Landupdeen and thereafter a steep ascent of another 1 hour brings you to Gung Chhumik.
HAPPY TRAILS !!! :)
5TH DAY: TARALA TO CHOWAI (5450 ft.).... 11 Km.
A long but exotic day's walking. From Tarala its a wonderfully interesting walk till Chowai. The rest house in Chowai is situated in a most picturesque location.
6TH DAY: CHOWAI TO KHANAG (8800 ft.).... 10 Km.
Through the village of Kot with a steep ascent into the Oak and Rhododendron woods at Khanag. Khanag is a quaint hamlet situated in picture-book surroundings. Overnight in guesthouse.
7TH DAY: KHANAG - SREO-SAR LAKE (11650 ft.) - JALORI PASS (10540 ft.)...12 km.
Moderate to steep gradient through whispering coniferous forests up to the beautiful and mystic Sreo-Sar lake. After exploring the surroundings, walk along a level ridge to the Jalori Pass. To the left of the pass are the ruins of the historical Raghunathpur Fort (3306m). O/N in guesthouse at Khanag for the most memorable night of stars gazing.
Gradual descent through enchanting scenery till Shoja, campers delight. O/N in a beautiful guest house made entirely of polished wood.
9TH DAY: SHOJA - JIBBI (6800 ft.)...7 km.
Steep descent till Ghiaggi through the Jibbi valley. After Ghiaggi it's a short level walk till Jibbi. O/N in guesthouse.
10TH DAY: JIBBI - SHIMLA...235 km. / BANJAR - MANALI...95 km.
By road. After pick-up from Banjar, proceed to Shimla or Manali. End of tour.
THE DAK BUNGALAW TRAIL OF SHIMLA (walking, cycling, road tripping)
Charabara in Shimla is surrounded on three sides by the magnificent Shimla Water Catchment Sanctuary, a 125 year old sanctuary that was established by the British as a reserved forest. The sanctuary was the initial source of water for Shimla, the water pumped to Shimla town through a series of steam pumps, reputed to be the first of their kind in the country. Today this pristine and undisturbed forest stretches across an area of 12 square kilometres and is considered by many as one of the wealthiest storehouses of Himalayan flora. This extremely dense forest is also the habitat for a vast variety of fauna, the most prominent being the Leopard. Although a sighting of this extremely human-shy and nocturnal animal is very rare, regular reports of droppings prove the existence of a large population within the sanctuary. The Himalayan Black Bear and the Brown Bear, Barking Deer, Goral, Jackal, Indian Red Fox, Striped Hyena and the Yellow-Throated Martin are some of the species of wildlife that thrive in the undisturbed forests of the sanctuary. A wide variety of bird and pheasant species can also be spotted in the lower altitude belts of the sanctuary, some of the more prominent ones being the Cheer, Koklas and Khaleej pheasants, the Himalayan Pied Woodpecker, the Great Himalayan Barbet and some sparklingly colorful minivets. A bifurcation penetrates deep into the sanctuary along a prominent ridgeline. Descend down to the Seyog Forest Rest House, a hundred year old lathe and plaster (Dhajji) structure located in the midst of this silent forest. The narrow trail undulates for an hour or more through one of the best-preserved forests in Asia. Cedars, Firs, Pines and Oaks jostle each other for space and the canopy-density at places prevents even the sunlight from peeping through to the forest floor. Droppings and pugmarks of the fauna are regular sightings along this trail and if ones luck holds out, a perky Barking Deer too might flash past in gay abandon. As one would guess, this is an excellent site for some bird-watching too.
The trip continues after a night at the Seog forest rest house navigating the Old Hindustan Tibet road (also National Highway 22) towards Narkanda. The morning is spent hiking to the top of Hatu Peak @ 2900 mtrs and then descending from there to Baghi a refreshing walk through whispering pines. The overnight stay is at Baghi rest house built in 1906. The next day we have an option of either riding the mountain road till Sungri or taking it easy in the comfort of our Jeeps. Upon reaching sungri we indulge in yet another walk to the meadow of Muraldanda 3500 mts, offering grand views of the Himalayas. Descend in time to reach sungri rest house. The next day is a meandering ride through the old HT road, with brief stopovers at Bahli and Taklech both offering brilliant views of the Srikhand Himalayas. The ride is exciting as we drive past a high road flanked by high cliffs and a dense forest. After Taklech it’s a 29 kms of a looping road towards daran pass. This is Katrech Ghati and Daranghati our night halt has a rest house dating back again to the late 1800’s. The next morning again we have a choice of cycling downhill towards Mashnu and then towards Sarahan, passing through Kinnu cliffs. At Sarahan we visit the 800 year old Bhimakali temple and thereafter it’s a walk through the unused section of the Old HT road towards Taranda. The rest house here again dates back to late 1800’s. The 11 kms walk takes 4-5 hours.
From Taranda we have the option of either covering the whole distance to Nichar in 2 days and descending to Wangtu in Kinnaur, or we walk back to Sarahan and drive back to Shimla.
THE ITINERARY
Day Zero
Board the evening Volvo bus from Delhi and journey to Shimla. This is a nine hour comfortable journey.
Day One Seog Rest house.Arrive at Shimla at 0600 hrs, where cabs awaiting your arrival transfer you to Seog Shimla water catchment sanctuary. Check into the rest house and explore the forest area with an expert. Early evening you may take a trip to Shimla town to return by 1900 hrs. O/N rest house.
Day Two Seog rest House – Narkanda (walk to Hatu Peak and descend to Baghi)
A 70 kms road journey followed by a 3 hour walk to Hatu Peak. Visit the Hateshwari Mata temple and thereafter with a picnic lunch stopover at Jaubagh meadow descend to Baghi, actually 4 kms short of Baghi. Check into the rest house at Baghi.
Day Three Baghi – Khadrala – Sungri (walk to Muraldanda and Back) or a stay at Sungri RH
An early morning drive or a cycling ride to Sungri a distance 27 kms. Once at Sungri we start with our lunch packets and day packs attempting the steep ascent to Muraldanda perched at 3500mts. This is a long walk of 8 hours and involves overnight camping at the meadow. The other option is to stay put at sungri rest house and get your favorite book or hum away on your guitar.
Day Four Sungri – Bahli – Taklech – Deothi – Daranghati
Start at 0800 hours driving through the Old HT road and reach Daranghati by 1200 hrs. After check in at the rest house hike to Shiraikoti temple perched on a peak, a two hour hike. Thereafter hike back to the rest House.
Day Five Daranghati – Mashnu – Kinnu – Sarahan (4 hour walk to Taranda)
Another day when we have the option of cycling or driving to Sarahan, a 43 kms distance. At Sarahan visit the Bhimakali temple and after an early lunch at 1400 hrs hike through the unused section of the Old HT road, now a walking trail towards Taranda. You have the option of driving back to Shimla after visiting Sarahan, or else the walk and stay at Taranda is a resonating memory.
Day Six Sarahan – Luhri – Tattapani – Naldehra – Shimla
A day of driving along the Sutlej river towards Tattapani and then ascending towards Shimla to board your evening bus in time back to your destinanation or extend your stay at Shimla and stay another night at the Craignano Forest Rest house.
Rest Houses of the Raj (Sarahan to Roghi)
DAY ONE
Shimla – Theog – Narkanda – Hatu peak – Jobagh – Tani Jubbar – Rampur
Catching up with National Highway 22 early morning we head on to Narkanda 2708mts. nestled amidst Sub alpine forests of fir and birch, and also serves as a winter Ski Resort. Further up the road, begins the climb towards Hatu Peak Hatu Temple Sutlej Valley Rampur Bushahir Kingdom Bhimakali Temple Srikhand Peak Srikhand Peak
DAY TWO
Sarahan (2165 mts) – Chaura (1800 mts) 13kms
The first three Km out of Sarahan lie along a motor road, till one crosses the shoulder of the steep bare ridge falling to the NH a little beyond Jeori. Now begins the walk along the old HT route, traversing around the semi-circular bowl of Badhal, the last village of Shimla Sutlej lies far below, as the next ridge called Manotidhar is approached. Standing on this divide, a short detour from the main track, one looks into Kinnaur. Over 900 meters below, strung out along a thin ridge, is Kafour, the first village of Kinnaur forest of Pine
Over a hundred years old the Chaura rest house is small however comfortable. In a nearby grove of blue pine, jungle pheasants come in to
roost in the evenings, cuckoos call in the oak and horse chestnuts and it feels good to put one’s feet up on the railings and stare across the steep, rocky slopes topped by thick spruce forests, on the other side of the river.
DAY TWO
Chaura (1800 mts) – Taranda (2240 mts) 9kms
The second day, just out of Chaura is Saundhar. This ridge offers the first view of the Kinner Kailash on the old HT road. Local legend has it that the huge rock above was at one time home to mighty serpent, which devoured unwary wanderers. It seems a peaceful enough place now and school children, reciting lessons at the primary school just above the path, dispel any such terrifying visions.
From Saundhar, the next ridge, Thindeoring, is clearly seen and just across this the Taranda rest house, an 8 Km walk, curving around the Chaunda Nullah, before Thindeoring is reached from where it is a climb to the rest house which like others on the Old Ht route is more than 100 years old.
DAY THREE
Taranda (2240 mts) – Ponda (1800mts) 8Kms
It is a short walk to another landmark rest house on the Old HT road on the third day. Beyond Taranda, the older HT road takes off from the rest house, through Deodar, Pine and Oak forest Sutlej , 600mts below. Across the Sutlej , the Kamba cliffs complete the picture of a narrow impenetrable gorge. About 300mts below the HT road is the NH. Gouged out of sheer rock, its construction is an engineering marvel of the late 1950’s. The 1930’s alignment, hewn out of the same rock with chisel, crowbar and hammer, is no less a feat of its time. Less than an hour out of Taranda, the track takes a sharp right, away from the roar of the Sutlej and into the valley of Solding Bari Motor Road
DAY FOUR
Ponda (1800mts) – Nichar (2200mts) 8kms.
Ponda to Nichar is another 8km along a motor road, past the village of Kangosh Sutlej valley a century ago. Andrew Wilson, an Englishman traveling the road in 1873, wrote admiringly of trees with 12 meters girth, however the present forest is only an abbreviated shadow of this former magnificence.
Nichar – Wangtu 5kms
It’s a steep 5km descent from Nichar to Wangtu, where the old HT road and the NH merge, till Tapri 11kms further ahead.
Wangtu – Tapri 11kms
Journey along the NH 22 in a bus/car/jeep towards Tapri which boasts of yet another old Rest house, amidst a pine grove.
DAY FIVE
Tapri (1750 mts) – Urni (2500 mts) 6 kms
It’s a short climb, to Urni from Tapri. The trail is best tackled in the cool of early morning or late afternoon as Tapri gets quite warm during the summers. Perched above slopes falling steeply to Choeling far below, Urni has another of those old, two room British built rest houses.
DAY SIX
Urni (2500 mts) – Roghi (2782 mts) 16 Kms
From Urni Rest house, the HT road slopes down to the Rora and after crossing the stream, ascends gradually, passing well below Miru as it curves out again towards the Sutlej. Winding around the mountain sides towards the small village of Runang forest of Deodar Sutlej resumes its gorge like course after the uncharacteristic width and gentleness near Kilba, the traveler enters the domain of the “Greater Himalaya ”. Classic mountain scenery is now close at hand. The wind sloughs through mushroom topped deodars and across the river, the emerald green Baspa (Sangla River
DAY SEVEN
Roghi (2782 mts) – Kalpa (2800 mts) 6 Kms
From Roghi to Kalpa, the HT road has been widened and made motorable, reducing considerably for walkers, the terror of the Roghi cliffs. We have the choice of either walking the distance or ride on a Bus/car/Jeep to Kalpa. This region of Kinnaur is known as the Sairag region and for a long time “Chini” in this area was the only place in Kinnaur of which the outside world had some knowledge perhaps due to hard Dalhousie’s two summer visits as Governor General of India Himalaya . Here the Kinner Kailash range appears to spread itself out for the admiring gaze of the visitor. Not so close as to induce claustrophobia, yet almost to hand, the Mountains rise majestically from the river bed up through orchard forest and glinting glaciers to rocky pinnacles and snow-capped tops. The semicircle of peaks includes Raldang, Jorkanden and Kinner Kailash. Close to a saddle on the northern shoulder of Kinner Kailash, one can pick out the 17 – meter rock pillar of “Shivling”, changing colors with the movement of the sun. Further down 13kms Reckong Peo has a monastery of the Mahabodhi society and was constructed specially for the Dalai Lama to perform the Kalchakra ceremony in 1992. Next to it is a 10m statue of standing Buddha, visible from a considerable distance. Chini too has a Bodh Temple
The Kinner Kailash Parikrama
For the Hindu or Buddhist, to perform a “Parikrama” is to circum-ambulate a holy place, be it temple, lake or mountain. The most sacred parikrama for the devout is the circumambulation of Mt.Kailash (The Abode of Shiva) and the adjacent Mansarovar Lake Tibet
A parikrama is always performed in a clockwise direction with the sacred precincts on one’s right. The Traditional Parikrama of the Kinner Kailash was a long journey on foot, stretching over 200 kms. Beginning from the Buddhist temple at Powari, at the base of the Holy Mountain, the route wound up the left bank of Sutlej, into the Tedong or Tirung valley, over the Charang pass, down the Baspa and back to Powari again. At Powari and every village thereafter, lighting a lamp at the local Buddhist temple was an essential part of the pilgrimage. Now motor roads have shortened the walk to a five day trek from Thangi in the Tedong valley to Chitkul, the highest village in the Sangla valley just short of the border with Tibet
DAY ONE
Kalpa – Ribba – Thangi 2800mts
After a brief orientation and stocking up with supplies and trek staff we find ourselves journey in a jeep, sampling the villages under the shadow of The Kinner Kailash to Thangi. Set up camp and enjoy a good sleep to begin the trek tomorrow.
DAY TWO
Thangi – Lambar 2950 mts ….. 5 – 6 Hrs
Start early morning after breakfast. Just out of Thangi, above the old path is a foot print like impression credited to Rinchen Tsangpo, the Great Translator. There is a mule track till the point where we start descending to Tedong at Guldum. From here on it is along the valley bed. Past the flood plain of the Shakrang Nullah, the little hamlet of Lambar comes into sight, on the other side of the river. Lambar’s houses shaded by huge walnut trees cling to the right bank of the Lambar stream. The valley widens a little here, the Tedong prattles at a gentler pace, and young deodars and pines add to the charm. Set up camp.
DAY THREE
Lambar – Charang 3450 mts
The Traditional Parikrama route requires one to visit Kunu, before moving on to Charang. Soon after Lambar the trees begin thinning out. First to go are the deodars, then the pines, and thereafter the birch. Finally only the Junipers are left in occasional clumps, to break the monotony of bare soil and rock-strewn hill side. The path from Guldum onwards is through river bed moraine, with frequent detours over rock faces or steep sedimentary deposits. This, tiresome stretch continues up to the flats of Shurtingting, a few kilometres short of Charang. The track which stays on the right bank after the crossing of the Tedong for Thangi, switches to the left, about 8kms short of Charang. For Kunu one continues up the right bank. Just past Shurtingting, the stream coming from the Simthang pass route to Tibet
DAY FOUR
Charang – Lalanti (4300mts) ………. 12kms
Beyond Charang, with the border less than 30 kms away, begins the restricted area and it is not possible for foreigners to visit Khimokul la, giving access to Tibet temple of Rangrik Tungma peak of Phawararang
DAY FIVE
Lalanti – Chitkul………… (3450mts)
Day five sees us crossing the Charang pass 5242 mts, involves no glacier crossing, and skirts its passage all the way to the top from Lalanti. After a long haul across treacherous moraine and a final breathless ascent on a slithery scree slope, it is a long run down to Chitkul on the other side. With an early start from Lalanti it is possible to reach Chitkul by late afternoon. A delayed start or too many halts enroute increases the unwelcome possibility of descending the boulder strewn slopes in the dark.
DAY SIX
Chitkul – Sangla (2650mts) …. 24 kms
One has the choice of either catching a bus to Sangla or to enjoy some of the prettiest scenery in the Himalaya , to walk to Sangla. The road moves down, through birch and pine interspersed with piles of jumbled rock. The river alternately ambles through pretty little glades or rushes through huge mounds of rock, with forested flanks and towering rock faces closing the valley on either side. Less than halfway to Sangla is the village of Rakcham village of Batseri
SPITI WALKABOUTS
Day 1: Kaza to Langza
Mode of Transport: Taxi/Bus
Duration: 1 Hour
Kaza: 3686 mts
Langza: 4400 mts
Travel to Langza from Kaza involves a journey on one of the world’s highest motorable roads. The road traverses along the mountain side above Kaza wherefrom the traveller gets a spectacular view of the meandering Spiti River, its tributaries and villages between Kewling and Hull. Opposite this mountain is the Kwang range. Views include the Nakedh Mountain. The route gradually snakes into the Shila Valley, where the traveller gets the first view of the Chocho Khang Namo mountain (5964mts), [translation: Chocho=princess, Khang=mountain, Namo=black]. Enroute is Chuling (4073mts) where blue sheep (bharal or tora) graze frequently. Other possible wildlife sightings include the Himalayan Red Fox. Shortly, the Chocho Khang Nilda (6380mts) [translation: Chocho=princess, Khang=mountain, Nilda= sun facing] spirals into view. The road enters the grazing lands of the Langza village at a place known as Kitzi lungpa (4226mts) where the vegetation is dominated by Thama – a wild shrub used as cattle feed. Langza village is divided into the lower village (Langza Yogma) and upper village (Langza Gogma). At the top of Langza Gogma is the Lang (village temple), a 600 year old Buddhist temple. Travel upto this point from Kaza involves an ascent of 714mts.
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. The Langza Lang (temple): The Lang (4422mts) is considered to be the abode of the devtas or deities of the region and is said to be over a 1000 years old. The first devta to reside in this region was Shhoikyong or Pekhar Gyavo, who is also the head. According to the local legend he came from a temple in Tibet called Samtong. The Lang is one of the three such ancient temples in Spiti, the other two being at Lhalung and Lari (now decrepit). This Lang has an old and new section. The old section has ancient frescos and thankas (paintings on silken canvasas) of Buddhist paintings. Local guides can provide an informative tour of this Lang and its history.
2. Tashigang: Tashigang is a small village visible on the range running parallel to Langza. Trek to Tashigang involves a 5 hour long descent to the Shila nallah, a tributary of the Spiti River. On the tributary there is a traditional water mill (Gharaat) used by the villagers for grinding barley. Thereupon a steep ascent lasting another 3 hours precedes arrival to the small village of Tashigang. This route is ideal for spotting the local fauna, especially the Snow Leopard. Local guides organise treks up to Tashigang.
3. Langza’s Fossil Centre: The Spiti Valley was formed as a result of the collision of the Indian and the Eurasian plate millions of years ago which led to the disappearance of the ancient Tethys Sea leaving behind fossilised clues of the sea life of that era. The route to the natural fossil centre starts from the Lang (temple) at Langza, from where it is about a half hour walk to its base. The fossil centre ranges from an average altitude of 4400 mts to 4600 mts along a narrow stream and is best explored here. It might seem extremely tempting to pick up a few of these geological relics, however, kindly refrain from depriving Spiti of its natural heritage. The services of a local guide must be availed for a visit to the Fossil centre.
4. Chocho Khang Nilda(6380 mts) Base camp: This is the third highest peak in Spiti at an altitude of 6380 mts. The peak is snow bound and trekking up to it is a serious affair requiring technical equipment. The locals organise trekking only upto the base camp sites. Equipment will have to be organised at Kaza through CATTS or the local travel agents since it will not be available at Langza.
5. Tsonyeti Lake Camping Site: Branching left from the Fossil centre, about an hour’s walk away, north of Langza is the Tsonyeti Lake, a small pond really, which is visited in July and August by migratory ducks. This is a good camping site located at a height of 4526mts.
6. Chumo Tso (Lake- 4619 mts): This lake is larger than the Tsonyeti located at an altitude of 4619m. It is also visited by migratory ducks in July and August. This makes a perfect camping site with its spectacular view of the Chocho Khang Nilda and Chocho Khang Namo.
Day 2: Langza to Komik
Mode of Transport: Foot
Duration: 5 to 6 Hours
Langza: 4400mts
Komik: 4513mts
The trek from Langza to Komic begins from the Lang (Temple) at Langza. This trek runs through the natural fossil centre and a substantial distance is covered while exploring this ancient heritage. This could take anywhere from 2 to 3 hours. As the fossil centre culminates, the trek continues with a gradual ascent along a ridge for another 1 hour. Thereafter, a 2 hour decent brings one to Komic village. The services of a guide from Langza will have to be availed to go via the fossil centre.
Legend:
The legend as per the sacred ‘Gum Maro’ (Red Box) kept in the Komic Monastery goes that it was foretold in Tibet that a Monastery would be built in Spiti. The Monastery was to be built in the backdrop of a mountain which would be in the shape of a snow lion on the left and a beheaded eagle on the right hand side with 4 springs in the vicinity. The area in between these mountains was to be in the shape of the eye of a snow cock, which was foretold as the exact location where the Monastery would be built. On the basis of this, the area was to be named Komic (‘Ko’ – Snow Cock, ‘Mic’ – Eye).
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Mode of Transport: Taxi/Bus
Duration: 1 Hour
Kaza: 3686 mts
Langza: 4400 mts
Travel to Langza from Kaza involves a journey on one of the world’s highest motorable roads. The road traverses along the mountain side above Kaza wherefrom the traveller gets a spectacular view of the meandering Spiti River, its tributaries and villages between Kewling and Hull. Opposite this mountain is the Kwang range. Views include the Nakedh Mountain. The route gradually snakes into the Shila Valley, where the traveller gets the first view of the Chocho Khang Namo mountain (5964mts), [translation: Chocho=princess, Khang=mountain, Namo=black]. Enroute is Chuling (4073mts) where blue sheep (bharal or tora) graze frequently. Other possible wildlife sightings include the Himalayan Red Fox. Shortly, the Chocho Khang Nilda (6380mts) [translation: Chocho=princess, Khang=mountain, Nilda= sun facing] spirals into view. The road enters the grazing lands of the Langza village at a place known as Kitzi lungpa (4226mts) where the vegetation is dominated by Thama – a wild shrub used as cattle feed. Langza village is divided into the lower village (Langza Yogma) and upper village (Langza Gogma). At the top of Langza Gogma is the Lang (village temple), a 600 year old Buddhist temple. Travel upto this point from Kaza involves an ascent of 714mts.
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. The Langza Lang (temple): The Lang (4422mts) is considered to be the abode of the devtas or deities of the region and is said to be over a 1000 years old. The first devta to reside in this region was Shhoikyong or Pekhar Gyavo, who is also the head. According to the local legend he came from a temple in Tibet called Samtong. The Lang is one of the three such ancient temples in Spiti, the other two being at Lhalung and Lari (now decrepit). This Lang has an old and new section. The old section has ancient frescos and thankas (paintings on silken canvasas) of Buddhist paintings. Local guides can provide an informative tour of this Lang and its history.
2. Tashigang: Tashigang is a small village visible on the range running parallel to Langza. Trek to Tashigang involves a 5 hour long descent to the Shila nallah, a tributary of the Spiti River. On the tributary there is a traditional water mill (Gharaat) used by the villagers for grinding barley. Thereupon a steep ascent lasting another 3 hours precedes arrival to the small village of Tashigang. This route is ideal for spotting the local fauna, especially the Snow Leopard. Local guides organise treks up to Tashigang.
3. Langza’s Fossil Centre: The Spiti Valley was formed as a result of the collision of the Indian and the Eurasian plate millions of years ago which led to the disappearance of the ancient Tethys Sea leaving behind fossilised clues of the sea life of that era. The route to the natural fossil centre starts from the Lang (temple) at Langza, from where it is about a half hour walk to its base. The fossil centre ranges from an average altitude of 4400 mts to 4600 mts along a narrow stream and is best explored here. It might seem extremely tempting to pick up a few of these geological relics, however, kindly refrain from depriving Spiti of its natural heritage. The services of a local guide must be availed for a visit to the Fossil centre.
4. Chocho Khang Nilda(6380 mts) Base camp: This is the third highest peak in Spiti at an altitude of 6380 mts. The peak is snow bound and trekking up to it is a serious affair requiring technical equipment. The locals organise trekking only upto the base camp sites. Equipment will have to be organised at Kaza through CATTS or the local travel agents since it will not be available at Langza.
5. Tsonyeti Lake Camping Site: Branching left from the Fossil centre, about an hour’s walk away, north of Langza is the Tsonyeti Lake, a small pond really, which is visited in July and August by migratory ducks. This is a good camping site located at a height of 4526mts.
6. Chumo Tso (Lake- 4619 mts): This lake is larger than the Tsonyeti located at an altitude of 4619m. It is also visited by migratory ducks in July and August. This makes a perfect camping site with its spectacular view of the Chocho Khang Nilda and Chocho Khang Namo.
Day 2: Langza to Komik
Mode of Transport: Foot
Duration: 5 to 6 Hours
Langza: 4400mts
Komik: 4513mts
The trek from Langza to Komic begins from the Lang (Temple) at Langza. This trek runs through the natural fossil centre and a substantial distance is covered while exploring this ancient heritage. This could take anywhere from 2 to 3 hours. As the fossil centre culminates, the trek continues with a gradual ascent along a ridge for another 1 hour. Thereafter, a 2 hour decent brings one to Komic village. The services of a guide from Langza will have to be availed to go via the fossil centre.
Legend:
The legend as per the sacred ‘Gum Maro’ (Red Box) kept in the Komic Monastery goes that it was foretold in Tibet that a Monastery would be built in Spiti. The Monastery was to be built in the backdrop of a mountain which would be in the shape of a snow lion on the left and a beheaded eagle on the right hand side with 4 springs in the vicinity. The area in between these mountains was to be in the shape of the eye of a snow cock, which was foretold as the exact location where the Monastery would be built. On the basis of this, the area was to be named Komic (‘Ko’ – Snow Cock, ‘Mic’ – Eye).
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. Komik Monastery: The Komic Lundup Tsemo Gonpa (Monastery) is one of the world’s highest at 4587mts. Komik Gonpa was earlier located near Hikkim and had to be shifted to its present location after an earthquake destroyed the earlier Gonpa. The Gonpa is well maintained and the local lamas (monks) can provide a guided tour.
2. Kum Kum Cave: a short jaunt (1.5 to 2 hours) from the village brings one to the kum kum cave, a meditation retreat for the lamas (monks) of the Monastery. Bharals (Blue Sheep) are the frequent visitors of this area and usually make for easy sighting.
3. A visit to the ruins of the old Sakyapa Monastery about a 3 hour walk from Komic. The legend goes that it was foretold in Tibet that there would be 3 streams meeting at a point above which there would be a mountain in the shape of a heart, where the current monastery should be placed. The paradox of this monastery is that even though there were 3 streams flowing in the vicinity, yet the Monastery was abandoned due to water scarcity after an earthquake. As per local folklore it is said that the presiding deity “Maha kala” of the Monastery had blessed 6 Bharals ( blue sheep) which live in the vicinity of the Monastery till date. The fortunate may well be blessed with the sightings of these creatures.
Day 3: Komic to Demul
Duration: 6 to 7 Hours
Komic: 4513mts
Demul: 4357mts
It is advisable to start this day early (7.00 am). The route stretches eastwards over the grazing lands of the Spitian highlands along the Pasham Range. Adequate snowfall in the winters transforms this frost bitten cold desert landscape into a lush green carpet of diverse flora. A slow ascent from Komic village lasting about 1 hour 30 minutes brings one to Chamai Lapchai (4717 mts), the first pass en-route to Demul. From here one gets a panoramic view of various peaks such as Cho-Cho Khang Namo, Cho-Cho Khang Nilda, Pin peak, Pasham range, Cho-Kula, Hull peak, etc. Here one also encounters herds of livestock brought up from the villages for grazing on these rich and nutritious pasturelands. The snow cock, although an elusive bird, can be sighted in this area. From the Chamai Lapchai a gradual walk of about 3 hours, with an abundance of medicinal plants and other flora of the Spitian Highlands, brings one to the grazing lands of Demul village. En-route a place called Faisa Dunggo (4674mts) is an ideal location to get a look at various medicinal plants such as Chey (Somlata), Bursay, Patish, Thama, etc. Wildlife such as the Tibetan Wolf, Red Fox and the Snow Cock can also be sighted here. A temporary settlement called Doksa, made by the villagers for the purpose of grazing their livestock is an ideal halt for a quick bite of lunch. Just before the Doksa is a place called Chomali Tanka, which is an ideal location for camping with a vast open area, also used at times for horse riding. Thereafter an ascent of about 1 hour brings one to the Young Lapchai (4717mts), which is one of the highest passes while trekking within Spiti. From here one gets a panoramic view of Cho_Cho Khang Nilda, Manirang (the second highest peak of Spiti rising to an altitude of 6593mts), Yulsa, Cho Kula, Hull peak, Shishu Pang, Pin peak and the Pasham range. A steep descent of about 30 minutes brings one to the entrance of Demul village which is adorned by Mane walls (stones intricately carved with religious prayers) called Ma Dhang Ringbo (4475mts). As per local custom one should always circumvent them clockwise. From here another descent of about 30 minutes through the fields of barley and peas brings you to the village of Demul situated at an altitude of 4357mts.
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. Mulchay (Pasture Lands) Duration- 8 Hours: An ideal location for sighting wildlife as well as the local cattle. The walk from the village lasts about 3 to 4 hours and one gets the opportunity to see a variety of flora and fauna. This area is ideal for sightings of the Blue Sheep, Tibetan Wolf, Red Fox, besides the local cattle.
2. Balaari Top (Total duration- 5 Hours): A 3 hour walk to Balaari top is worthwhile for anyone who wishes to have a bird’s eye view of the Spiti valley. This walk is a continuous and gradual climb to the top and subsequently a continuous descent back to the village. From this particular point one can see 18 villages of Spiti, the maximum number visible from any point in the entire valley. One also gets a spectacular view of various peaks such as Cho-Kula, Manirang, etc. This trek is best enjoyed on a Yak and if a Yak is not available a horse is also a good option.
3. Yulsa – This mountain has great religious significance for the inhabitants of Demul village. A Shivling adorns the top of this mountain and each year the villagers go to the top of this mountain to pour milk on it. The villagers go to pay oblations twice a year. As per their local custom first the men will go and then the women. From the village Yulsa top is about a 3 hour climb.
4. Langs (temples) – Demul village is adorned by two langs (temples). These are not as spectacular as the ones you find in the rest of the Spiti valley, though worth a visit. The Langs are situated within the village.
5. Zong phu (cave) - Immediately out of the village en-route to Lhalung, is the Zong phu which is about a 20 minute walk from Demul. This cave was used by the inhabitants of Demul as their post and also a safe hideout during attacks from outside, primarily from Lhalung.
Day 4: Demul to Lhalung
Duration: 4 to 5 Hours
Demul: 4357mts
Lhalung: 3758mts
Early mornings in Spiti are the appropriate time to start any walks. From Demul to Lhalung is a relatively easier trek with a steep initial descent through a narrow gorge lasting about 2 hours to the valley floor. Immediately out of Demul is the Zong phu which is about a 20 minute walk from the village. This cave was used by the inhabitants of Demul as their post and also a safe hideout during attacks from outside, primarily from Lhalung. The steep descent continues till the valley floor of the Padang river. From here on another 30 minute walk brings you to the quaint little hamlet of Sanglung (3612 mts). This village is ideal to take a quick lunch break amidst the green fields of barley and peas. From Sanglung you enter the Lingti valley and a gradual walk lasting about 1 hour will bring you to the bed of the Lingti River. The Samba (bridge), at an altitude of 3576 mts connecting Lhalung village to Sanglung has a local deity (by the name of Yulsa) resides here. It is a local custom to pay your regards by offering some food or drinks to the deity. Thereafter a steep ascent of about 1 hour will get you to the village of Lhalung. This entire stretch is full of diverse flora such as the wild rose, Seabuckthorn (Hippophae Rhamonides), Umboo (Myricaria Squamosa), juniperus macropoda, Ephedra Gerardiana, Arnebia Benthami, etc. The entry to the village is adorned by a line of Seabuckthorn trees on the edges of the fields.
Legend:
The name Lhalung literally means ‘Land of the Gods’ (Lha- Devtas (deities), Lung- Area). It is said that the Lhalung Devta is the head of all the Devtas of the Lingti Valley and is said to emerge from the Tangmar mountain located beyond the village in the Lingti valley. It is said that this mountain changes colour from time to time depicting the various moods (anger (red), happiness (yellow), etc) of the Devtas.
Accommodation:
Homestays – enjoy a clean and comfortable sojourn in a Spitian house, with the opportunity to savour the local cuisine besides experiencing the traditional lifestyle.
Places to visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. The Sarkhang (temple) – 3779 mts: This is one of the oldest temples in Spiti and is said to be more than a 1000 years old. According to legend, Lotsawa Rinchen Zangbo came here more than a thousand years ago and planted a willow tree, stating that if this tree would survive till the next year, a temple should be constructed in this location. The temple was said to have been constructed by the Devtas (deities) in a single night. The courtyard of the temple is still adorned by the same tree, planted more than 1000 years ago. The temple also has a tunnel which runs around it, meant for circumventing the temple clockwise according to the local custom. This tunnel had various paintings most of which have now completely disappeared due to lack of any maintenance. Outside the temple, is the Lang Karpo (Literally meaning ‘White Temple’), which has a statue of the Buddha sitting in all four directions, also said to have been built at the same time as the temple.
2. Cho Kula: This mountain is supposed to have a deity residing in it and hence holds great importance for the local people. Although the villagers have scaled the peak, there is no official record of its height.
Day 4: Lhalung to Dhankhar
Duration: 4 to 5 Hours
Lhalung: 3758m
Dhankhar: 3890 mts
The trek from Lhalung to Dhankhar is another relatively easy trek. The trek runs along the road and then gradually climbs up the hillside towards the direction of Dhankhar. After crossing over the ridge, the rock and mud pillars of Dhankhar come into view. A gradual decent brings one to the remains of the Dhankhar fort.
Legend:
Dhankhar originally called Dhakkhar (Dhak- Cliff, Khar- Palace), literally means ‘Palace on a cliff’. Dhankhar was the earlier capital of Spiti and was adorned by a stunningly unique and precariously balanced fort.
Places to Visit:
Local guides (available within the village) will be required for most of these excursions.
1. Dhankhar Fort - The remains of the fort are placed at the top of the village and give a panoramic birds’ eye view of the Spiti and Pin valleys below.
2. Dhankhar Gonpa (Old Monastery): Traditionally known as the Dhankhar Lauot Gonpa, it is believed to be the first monastery built in Spiti and as per the local legend it will be the last to fall. This monastery belongs to the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism.
3. Dhankhar Monastery (New): The new monastery is located at the entrance of Dhankhar village.
4. Rural Museum: The museum houses some of the rare artefacts of Spiti, primarily donated by the villagers and the Monastery, some of which date back to almost a 1000 years.
5. Dhankhar Lake (4517 mts): The Dhankhar lake, a 1 hour 30 minutes steep climb from the village has a spectacular setting with its turquoise blue waters in the backdrop of the Spitian mountains. The lake is also frequented by the local fauna and if fortunate one can easily sight various birds and mammals of this region.
6. Cho Kula Peak: This mountain is supposed to have a deity residing in it and hence holds great importance for the local people. Although the villagers have scaled the peak, there is no official record of its height. This steep ascent could take anything between 8-9 hours and is advisable to do it as a two day trek.
7. Gung Chhumik (Meditation Centre): This meditation centre inhabited by a nun is 4 hours from Dhankhar village. A moderate walk of about 3 hours brings one to a place called Landupdeen and thereafter a steep ascent of another 1 hour brings you to Gung Chhumik.
HAPPY TRAILS !!! :)
